1020 timing marks on gears

There is no timing mark on the crank. When the engine is at TDC, the key on the crank gear will be straight up.

When you get your manual, you'll see they want you to use a thing called a timing tool. -- JD254 -- which wraps around the crank and lines up with the timing mark on the cam gear. It looks like the cam timing mark should be at about the 5 o'clock position -- but you will probably want to go thru the whole drill and see how much that timing tool costs before you bolt it down that way.

I just read your earlier post -- it may be that whoever messed with it before just eyeballed it, and caused the problem you've got. If you can't find a timing tool and want to back in to it -- at TDC the intake and exhaust valves for cylinder #1 are fully closed and ready to adjust for valve lash. (TDC exhaust will free up #3 and #6 rocker arms.) There's no balance shaft or Diesel pump working on your 3 cylinder gas, so I think all the rest are in effect idler gears.

I used to spend endless hours degreeing cam timing on race engines with variable eccentric hole lobes in the timing gears. Always gave me a bit of a headache. That was just a 4 or 5 crank degree retard or advance. Sound like yours is a whole lot more than that out of wack -- or somebody stuck a very long duration cam in there (doubtful).

Steve

Here's the quote from the manual:

" Crankshaft gear has no timing marks but keyway in crankshaft will be straight up when engine is at TDC."

Maybe they mean at the bottom and pointing straight up. In the pictures I see no keyway on top and I'm assuming they're at TDC.

Don't see how the crank could be 180 out. I think the problem is the semantics of the manual"

So, the double check is the timing screw on the bell housing. It will go into a hole in the flywheel when the engine is at TDC. I'll post a picture of that if you need it. That's the way I've always found TDC, so I'm sure it works.

Steve