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1944 John Deere Model A

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James Lashbrook

07-13-2002 19:31:06




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I recently traded for a '44 John Deere Model A. The tractor seems to be in good shape, but alas I have a problem. This is my first Deere and I would appreciate any help that you could send my way.
When I purchased the tractor, the fellow I bought it from said that a new clutch was installed. He said the "snap" of the clutch was set at 25 lbs. The problem is that you have to hold a little forward pressure on the clutch lever while engaged in order to keep it engaged with engine running. I noticed that my crankshaft moves side to side about a 1/4" - 3/8". While looking through this discussion forum, I noticed that there might be an adjustment to tighten the crankshaft side-to-side play. How does one do this? When the crankshaft is pulled out, away from the tractor, the clutch seems to snap in fine. When the crankshaft is pushed in toward the tractor, the lever doesn't have near the snap. Thanks, James

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Clooney

07-13-2002 20:01:22




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 Re: 1944 John Deere Model A in reply to James Lashbrook, 07-13-2002 19:31:06  
James, are you looking at the actual crankshaft end play or just the clutch pulley play [movement]? [pulley movement is normal]
~To see the actual crankshaft end play watch the flywheel not the pulley.
~The crankshaft end play should be .005" -.010",.... to set it, pull the pulley clutch cover, then loosen the 2 through bolts that go through the flywheel hub on the flywheel, then either block or have someone hold the crankshaft on the pulley side [that's why you removed the pulley cover] all the way in to the left, then use a block of wood or lead hammer & drive the flywheel onto the crank farther until you have .005" -.010" of end play. You can use a dial indicator on the flywheel rim or just guess at it [.005-.010" is just a very light clunk, with very little perceived movement of the flywheel]. Retighten the flywheel bolts when it is set & recheck the bolts for tightness after about 2 hours of use.
~Unless you are running out of clutch lever travel or the clutch fork is hitting something inside the 1st reduction cover, a little extra crank side movement shouldn't effect the clutch snap in or hold in. You can actually snap a 2-cylinder clutch in while it is off the tractor.
~25 lbs. snap in effort is low for a 2-cylinder & it should be set a little higher, [depending on the clutch operating parts wear & smoothness of operation, probably around 60 lbs] also make sure the 3 adjusting nuts are the same tightness on the clutch adjustment.
~If a clutch adjustment & raising the effort a little doesn't help, you probably have worn operating parts & operating sleeve drive pin or pin hole wear.

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James Lashbrook

07-13-2002 21:25:14




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 Re: Re: 1944 John Deere Model A in reply to Clooney, 07-13-2002 20:01:22  
I looked the flywheel over and I believe that because of the freeplay of the crankshaft, I'm using almost all of the clutch lever travel to take out the play in the crankshaft before the clutch tries to engage. If I move the flywheel out from the tractor, then engage the clutch, the flywheel moves in quite a bit, then the clutch engages. I'll adjust this freeplay first. I would like to know how to adjust the snap of the clutch.

Thanks, James

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James Lashbrook

07-13-2002 20:13:49




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 Re: Re: 1944 John Deere Model A in reply to Clooney, 07-13-2002 20:01:22  
Thanks for the reply and info. I was grabbing ahold of the flywheel and moving it in and out. I will adjust that after I adjust the snap of the clutch since it has no effect on the clutch. How does one go about setting the snap of the clutch at 60lbs? Thanks, James



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Clooney

07-14-2002 04:16:02




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 Re: Re: Re: 1944 John Deere Model A in reply to James Lashbrook, 07-13-2002 20:13:49  
James, since you are using all of your lever travel before the clutch snaps in, in your case the crank end play will effect the clutch operation.
~To set the clutch adjustment [snap & holding power] remove the clutch cover, remove the cotter pins, then turn each of the 3 nuts to the right 1-2 notches & re-try the clutch hand lever. ~I suppose you could use a push or pull scale on the hand lever but you should be able to do a good job by feel. Try 2 notches & see if the clutch will snap in & out without having to jerk on the lever with extreme force to disengage it. I think you will find that when you get it a little too tight it won't disengage without a lot of effort on the lever & actually having to give it a jerk to get it to engage or release. ~Depending on the wear on the operating parts you might never get it to feel smooth & engage & disengage with the same effort.
~Seeing as you don't know who did it or how even the clutch was adjusted to begin with you might want to start with an even tension on the adjusting nuts before you do the final adjustment....To do so, engage the clutch, back all 3 nuts off until they are free, then tighten each to have the same force to turn [do this a little on each nut at a time to keep them even] , you can use a torque wrench [try about 15" lbs on each nut] or a short wrench that you hold the same way with the same hand for each nut.
~Adjusting those clutches isn't rocket science, just keep everything even & turn the adjusting nuts in until the clutch snaps in & out with a pronounced snap that doesn't require excessive force to release it..... ...

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