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Jeff, I'd first suspect the condensor. If you have a multimeter that does capacitance, the condensor should measure about .25µF (micro Farads). If you pull the distributor and measure the resistance while turning the shaft slowly, you should see 0 to some megaohms. If you see a 0 to very little resistance change, it's the condensor. If you have no meter handy -- but do have some old 12V light bulbs, here's a kind of fun, but more time consuming, way to troubleshoot: Run wires to two test lights from the + and - terminals of the coil. (I'm assuming the 2010 as Newgen is neg ground. If not, think backwards) When the engine is running, the light on the + side will be steady, and the - side will be dim or flickering. When the ignition cuts out, see which light goes out. If it's the flickering light, check for shorts in the distributor, shorts in the wire from the coil, points not opening, or bad condenser. If the steady light goes out (+ terminal) Look for shorts -- melted or worn insulation on the pos wire. Also, ballast resistor may be bad or it could also be a bad ignition switch. If you don't want to go to all that trouble, some guys say that spraying contact cleaner on thin cardboard -- like the cover on a book of matches -- then swabing that through the points' contacts a few times will keep them running for months without an ignition miss. good luck with it... Steve
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