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Carb problem with a model 50

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John Van Valken

11-03-2002 21:48:04




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Hello all,

After rebuilding the radiator and installing new manifolds and muffler I've finally got my old model 50 back together again. No overheating problems but I've got a serious lack of power and generally poor running. I suspect I've done something to the carb that might cause this as I installed a rebuild kit while doing everything else.

I had not changed the timing. Got nice blue sparks on both cylinders. Both cylinders seem to be moving lots of air (have not tried a compression test yet), but it acts like its running on one cylinder once revs are increased. I can get it to idle okay, responds to both idle mixture screws but looses power when a load is applied. Acts like its not getting sufficient fuel to one cylinder. No black smoke or "rich" smell in the exhaust. Pulling in choke has little or no effect. Needs choke to start though so I know the butterflys are working. Double checked gas flow. Plenty of gas in the carb bowl. As a matter of fact it continues to run for about 20 or 30 seconds once the gas is turned off so there must be plenty in the bowl. The load screw does not seem to be having any effect. Like I said idle is okay but as I add throttle I suddenly hear the exhaust note change to a puffy flat tone instead of the usual powerfull note. I'm guessing a clogged passage in the carb but it ran great before I rebuilt it. I suppose I could have loosened some crud during the rebuild that got stuck somewhere.

I double checked the main jet (all little openings are clear).

Question: What is the initial opening for the load screw?

Any ideas are as always appreciated.

John

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Clooney

11-04-2002 16:38:00




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 Re: Carb problem with a model 50 in reply to John Van Valkenburgh, 11-03-2002 21:48:04  
John, that load needle is just a load attenuator & doesn't really control the load jets [the real load jets are internal to the carb. Try about 1-1/2 turn open from seated to start.
~Make sure the float is set correctly [I usually just set them parallel to the bowl gasket flange]
~If your new manifold has a heat valve, MAKE SURE the heat valve is set to exactly hot or cold & not in between. If in between it will block the exhaust on that side.
~Just because it will run for a while when you turn it off don't assume it is getting a good gas flow. Pull the carb drain & hold the button down on the strainer [if you have an oil pressure shut-off] & make sure you are getting a good fuel flow for at least 30 seconds, if not look at the carb strainer [just above the where the fuel line attaches to the carb].
~If all above ok try new spark plugs. Then you might try an old trick [it's called a farmers carb overhaul].. remove the air intake to the carb, then start the tractor & run on fast idle, then place your hand over the carb intake & allow the engine to almost die, then remove your hand & let it speed up, then repeat. What that does is pull fuel back through the air jets & orifices & sometimes will dislodge dirt & gum.
~Lastly, make sure the choke is opening all the way, sometimes that spring system will jump over the pin & not allow the choke to open all the way.....

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Clooney

11-04-2002 03:29:26




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 Re: Carb problem with a model 50 in reply to John Van Valkenburgh, 11-03-2002 21:48:04  
John, what carb do you have on that 50. Is it an all fuel single or does it have the DLTX duplex?
~We need to know the carb type to be able to help you....



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John Van Valkenburgh

11-04-2002 08:20:36




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 Re: Re: Carb problem with a model 50 in reply to Clooney, 11-04-2002 03:29:26  
Oh, sorry bout that. I guess it would make a difference what carb I've actually got eh? Its a gas only DTLX model 83 I believe.

Looking forward to your thoughts.

Thanks,
John



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Clooney

11-04-2002 16:39:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Carb problem with a model 50 in reply to John Van Valkenburgh, 11-04-2002 08:20:36  
John, that load needle is just a load attenuator & doesn't really control the load jets [the real load jets are internal to the carb. Try about 1-1/2 turn open from seated to start.
~Make sure the float is set correctly [I usually just set them parallel to the bowl gasket flange]
~If your new manifold has a heat valve, MAKE SURE the heat valve is set to exactly hot or cold & not in between. If in between it will block the exhaust on that side.
~Just because it will run for a while when you turn it off don't assume it is getting a good gas flow. Pull the carb drain & hold the button down on the strainer [if you have an oil pressure shut-off] & make sure you are getting a good fuel flow for at least 30 seconds, if not look at the carb strainer [just above the where the fuel line attaches to the carb].
~If all above ok try new spark plugs. Then you might try an old trick [it's called a farmers carb overhaul].. remove the air intake to the carb, then start the tractor & run on fast idle, then place your hand over the intake & allow the engine to almost die, then remove your hand & let it speed up, then repeat. What that does is pull fuel back through the air jets & orifices & sometimes will dislodge dirt & gum.
~Lastly, make sure the choke is opening all the way, sometimes that spring system will jump over the pin & not allow the choke to open all the way.....

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