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Power Block Question

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Jim Hummel

11-17-2002 11:14:03




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I have a 49 B w/power block. I am rebuilding and I have two questions. Because of design of the power block, what is the best way to install rods and pistons? i.e. put pistons in block then install block and hook up rods, or hang rods on crank and attempt to slide pistons in as you move the block back?
Also I have old style rods with babbitt (sp?) bearings. I have all of the steel and brass shims and have checked with plastigage. How do you keep those little things lined up while installing? They appear to have some solder or lead on top in two spots. Will I need to make them one piece before installation? Any help will be appreciated.

afterthought...wish I would have traded the power block and pistons for a good set of originals. It would have been easier to assemble. Shame to have power block in this tractor since it will only go on and off trailer and a couple parades a year, but I already spent the money to have it checked and honed, etc. At least it will look tough...

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Jim

11-17-2002 16:49:33




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 Re: Power Block Question in reply to Jim Hummel, 11-17-2002 11:14:03  
Thanks to Clooney, KEN and Chuck for your ideas. I will indeed put piston in block first. I'll bet getting the rods hooked up will be no picnic, but I've never been defeated yet. Any additional comments, recommendations are welcome since it will be next weekend before I do this.



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Clooney

11-17-2002 15:23:23




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 Re: Power Block Question in reply to Jim Hummel, 11-17-2002 11:14:03  
Jim, I always install the piston/rods in the block first then install the block, pistons & all. ~If you try to install the pistons into the block as it is installed you chance breaking a ring & will need a removable ring compressor.
~On the shims, they should be lined up as close as possible then pushed close to the crank so you don't loose oil pressure at the seam.
~If the crank has wear on it & the journals are egg shaped, the use of Plasti-Gage to set the rod bearing clearance will get you into trouble [unless done out of the tractor at the tightest point of the rod to the crank]. I use almost the same method as Chuck but don't remove shims until lock-up, I remove shims until an increase in crank turning resistance is felt, then add the amount of shim to each side of the rod to get the running clearance I need..

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KEN C.

11-17-2002 15:14:22




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 Re: Power Block Question in reply to Jim Hummel, 11-17-2002 11:14:03  
I put the pistons in the block, then slide back and bolt up rods. The pistons have to come in from rear due to the turn down at top for head gasket. You can put rods on first, but its hard to keep everything straight when moving that heavy block, can break rings easy. Just my thoughts, ken.



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ChuckW

11-17-2002 14:30:14




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 Re: Power Block Question in reply to Jim Hummel, 11-17-2002 11:14:03  
install the block first. Put your pistons in without rings. Put the same number of shims on top and bottom tighten rods. The wide part of shims will rid on the crank till tighten. Do one at a time, if the crank will turn take a shim from top and bottom. Those thin shims are .003. Do this retighten till the rod locks up and will not turn. Then add a shim to top and bottom. This will be right amount of shim. Then remove the rods, pistons and put the rings on. Be ure to have oil ring meet at top, then stager the other rings. Your're set then to install the head. Good luck.

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