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Crank Timing

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Jim

11-19-2002 16:41:11




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I am in the process of putting a JD B together and haven't been able to find the mark on the crank gear. The mark on the camshaft gear is visible but not the crank. Where should I set the mark on the cam and what position should the #1 crank throw be in? 3, 6, 9, 12 or some other position ?? Thanks for any help provided.




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Clooney

11-20-2002 09:25:03




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 Re: Crank Timing in reply to Jim, 11-19-2002 16:41:11  
Jim, sorry I missed your initial post [thanks John T.].
~I have been working on my home network & after some system cleaning all the posts show up as not read, so I seem to not know where I am right now.
~Jim, look closely for that mark. It is really hard to find at times [both the cam & crank marks should be on the pulley side of the gears.
~If you can't find the mark(s) then a good place to start is install the flywheel & turn the flywheel so the "L/H ex open" is in line with the case mark, then install the cam so the L/H exhaust lobe of the cam is just starting to lift [or move] the L/H exhaust lifter. You want it to just barely start to move the lifter [about .015"-.020"]. Then [if the head is still off] install a long wire [I use a tig welding rod or coat hanger wire]from a dial indicator mounted on the front of the block to the L/H exhaust lifter & "0" it with the lifter on the cam base circle, then turn the flywheel until you see .020" on the indicator, if it is timed correctly the "L/H ex open" on the flywheel should be within 1" of the case mark.
~When the head is on & the valve train is in & adjusted [use .020" cold on the L/H exhaust only] turn the flywheel again until the valve lash just comes out of the L/H exhaust rocker & at that time the "L/H ex open" should still be within 1" of the case mark. Then re-set the L/H exhaust valve to .022" as well as the others, then re-set all to .020" when hot.

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Davey G

11-20-2002 09:19:12




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 Re: Crank Timing in reply to Jim, 11-19-2002 16:41:11  
I just put the crank back in my late model B. The timing mark on the crank gear was exactly 180 degrees from the crank throw on the flywheel side.The mark was very hard to find and it lines up directly over the mark on the cam gear. Good luck



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John T (Yo Clooney, u got more to help here?)

11-20-2002 07:30:34




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 Re: Crank Timing in reply to Jim, 11-19-2002 16:41:11  
Jim, well no one else is hitting on this lol so I will at least discuss it. If you absolutely can not find a mark or punch on the crank gear, I have timed cam to cranks before, simply by looking at where what valves were at the proper time, but Im sure you can figure that withiout any advice. I would study number one left cylinder and see if you can time the crank to where the intake valve opens when the piston just starts down on its intake stroke, and is totally closed, of course, when it gets to the bottom. Then as you know, the piston will come back to top (no valves will open or be open) and go all the way back down (and just start back up) before the exhaust valve opens, which is then, again of course, closed at top. If it does all that, you are surely within a gear tooth of being right. Then, when the left piston is at TDC on its power compression stroke, the governor to cam gear is timed so its female drive cog slot (that mag fits into and is driven) should be flat horizontal. Other timings are the clutch disk versus the flywheels placement on the correct splines. They often have a v mark or a dot that lines up. If you get the flywheel on the right spline, its LH Impulse mark should be horizontal at 3 O Clock lined up with a mark on side of tractor when left piston is at TDC on compression stroke. Other thigns regardign timing are the clutch disks and flywheels heavy out of balance sides MUST be 180 opposite from each other to avoid serious vibration. This is about all the smarts I have concernign the subject, and as Forrest Gump says, Thats all I have to say about that. Good luck, Ol John T

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