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Schematic

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joel

01-16-2003 06:50:44




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i have a 1947 jd mt and i am getting no spark is there a schematic that any one has out there, also how do you effectively test the coil to see if it is working properly




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Clooney

01-16-2003 14:11:09




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 Re: schematic in reply to joel, 01-16-2003 06:50:44  
Joel, I sent you a harness diagram.. On the "M" one of the leading causes of no spark on an otherwise always starting tractor is a corroded or blown fuse between the ammeter & ign switch, or a failing ignition switch. A quick & easy test is to jump battery power from the starter big battery stud to the ignition coil [ign switch side terminal] & see if it will start. If it will, suspect the fuse first & if that is ok look for high resistance in the ignition switch.
~If the above is ok, look for oxidized points [clean or replace them] or open wire from ammeter to ign switch to coil.
~If still all ok per above, hold the coil wire about 1/8" from the block & see if you are getting a blue spark, if so your coil & distributor are good & you have cap, rotor, plug wire, or plug problems.....

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F-I-T

01-16-2003 09:58:00




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 Re: schematic in reply to joel, 01-16-2003 06:50:44  
Joel:

James has schematics posted on his site. Go to

www.deerehunters.com


Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855



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John T

01-16-2003 09:52:35




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 Re: schematic in reply to joel, 01-16-2003 06:50:44  
Joel, sorry I dont have a schematic, but can tell you somethign about the coil assuming its a battery powered external coil distributor system. First, when you turn on the ignition switch, a test lamp or a voltmeter should show voltage present at the coil primarys (1 of the 2 small terminals) high (non distributor) side. Then, a test lamp on the low (distributor) side terminal is normally off, since its usually grounded there through the points in the distributor, but should illuminate when the points are open like at high cam ready to fire a piston at TDC on its compression power stroke. With the ignition on and cranking the engine slowly, if the high side isnt always on and the low side flashing on and off, theres a problem like maybe the points (not closing or opening or shorted out or bad) etc and its never gonna spark. With the ignition on, if you remove the distributor cap and use a screwdriver (but dont short it out, a piece of plastic or wood may be better) to open the points (have it on low cam not opening points where they are closed) , the coil should fire a spark. Test that by pulling the coil wire out the top of the dist (leave other end in coil) and placing its metal output end 1/8 inch away from frame, and with ignition on when you open the points, it should fire a spark. Its usually a problem in the points (burned, carboned, pitted, shorted, not adjusted or not closing) or condensor instead of the coil. The points need to be gapped properly and open and close and make good electrical contact wehn closed and the condensor not bad or shorted out for the coil to ever work. You can run a simple continuity check on the coil with an ohmmeter or continuity tester, it needs to have a closed circuit between the 2 little terminal primary leads or else its bad. However, even if it passes simple low voltage continuity tests, it can still be bad and breaking down at high voltage. If you want, e mail me and I can send you a copy of two articles I wrote for Green Magazine which tells more than you ever wanna know about the theory and troubleshooting of coil ignition systems, or check last August and Decembers issues. Good Luck, Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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