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MF35/ hydraulics quit

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Bill

04-16-2003 06:59:24




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Last Saturday I raised up my finish mower to remove the blades and sharpen them. I blocked the deck, got the blades sharpened, removed the blocks and slowly lowered the mower. When I went to lift the mower to the mowing height nothing happened. No hydraulic action at all! It won't even move an inch. I didn't hear any noises and there is no apparent leak, the fluid is full and clean, so what happened? (and how do I fix it?) thanks for any advice.

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Roger

04-17-2003 12:33:36




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 Re: MF35/ hydraulics quit in reply to Bill, 04-16-2003 06:59:24  
I can't actually diagnose the problem but here's what I've learned:
My manual states that if the valves are to be replaced, the seats must be resurfaced. There's a T-handled tool for this job which has two in-line sets of cutters. It's not difficult to do the reseating, but finding the tool might be.
Maybe someone has replaced the valves without reseating the seats and things worked fine... I don't know enough about that to go through the trouble/time to pull the pump twice.
Let us know what you find.
Good luck!
Roger R

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Gordon-(TN)

04-17-2003 01:04:13




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 Re: MF35/ hydraulics quit in reply to Bill, 04-16-2003 06:59:24  
I had this happen to me on my 35 & through the opening Gary is speaking of you can see two tapered pieces that come down from the lift levers
at the bottom of them there is a roler,it should be betwene the pieces comimg down, if the lift lever was raised up to far toward the top to get that extra inch the roler most likley came out from betwene the pieces. I pushed mine toward the back and moved the lever to the other side,then lowered the top stop to where it didn't happen again. hope this helps. I have used these tractors for 35 years and still love um.
Gordon-(TN)

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Gary-Miss

04-16-2003 09:49:40




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 Re: MF35/ hydraulics quit in reply to Bill, 04-16-2003 06:59:24  
Usually what happens, ESPECIALLY if your tractor has been parked all winter is the valves in thepump stick. This is time consuming to repair, but, anyone with a little bit of mechanical ability can handle it. If you are afraid you will mess up, set up a cam corder while you take it apart and TALK TO YOURSELF. Neighbors might think you're a little odd, but, that's ok. The cover under the right front corner of the seat. Remove it. along with the tube that goes down to the pump.Pull the round side covers off. Remove the bolts and lift the lidd off. Unless you have a cherry picker, better get some help, There is a large cotter pin in the coupling. Remove it and lift the coupling out. Slide things back and forth to do this. On each side of the housing there are two small bolts holding an oblong plate. These have dowels and are what holds the pump in place. Pull the pump back a ways and lift it out On the top of each cylinder head are the valves. They slide on a "nail" When thefluid picks up some trash, they stick on the "nail. From the age of your tractor, You probably need to buy a valve kit. Make sure you notice after you take the side covers off and before proceeding further, how the valve mechanism works. Saves a little head scratching later. I probably left some some stuff out, but, no problem. Someone with a better memory than me and a lot more knowledge will correct me (and it won't hurt my feelings)

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