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35 fuel pump

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Bob

03-24-2004 14:10:54

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Recently acquired a '63 MF 35, perkins desiel. If it ever had any maintanance you could fool me. The fuel sediment bowl looked like one of those shake-up snow globe things, there was so much junk floating around in it. Both the primary and secondary fuel filters looked like someone had scooped up swamp muck into them when they were installed. I had the fuel tank cleaned and sealed, but also replaced the fuel pump while I had everything apart. Now, when I hook the fuel line to the pump and open the tap, no fuel flows into the sediment bowl. When I loosened the bowl to crack the seal, it promptly filled. What is preventing fuel from flowing into the pump. Even with the exit line disconnected, fuel will not flow into or through the pump. Does it need to be primed somehow? It seems that gravity would prime the thing. What am I doing wrong?

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Thomas

03-25-2004 10:33:40

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Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to Bob, 03-24-2004 14:10:54

The fuel tanks on the masseys have a little strainer fitted in the top of the tap to prevent muck getting into the system. However it causes more trouble than it prevents as when it blocks up and you've got a full tank of fuel, it's a very messy and wastefull job to change it. I always take the filter out and throw it away, it is far easier to clean the sediment bowl and change the filters than removing the tap and holding the fuel in by sticking your thumb in the hole! I've also seen people replace the filter with a short length of pipe to prevent the particles in the bottom of the tank entering the system. I don't think that this is your problem but I thought it was worth mentioning.
Fuel cannot flow with no bleed screws open as you're effectively trying to compress the air that's trapped in the system.
Just out of interest, how much do you pay for agri diesel in the US? I've just had some and it's gone up to 22p / litre - just over �1/gallon. I heard a discussion on the radio earlier and they said that you don't pay that much for road fuel?

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david

03-25-2004 05:17:20

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Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to Bob, 03-24-2004 14:10:54

bob, massey-fergueson endowed its fuel systems with many tight fitting, elbows and very fine screens in the darnest places. It has a screen in the fuel tank attached to the shut off, one on top/ inside of the sediment bowl and one in the fuel pump itself.Every elbow can trap flakes of rust and other gunk. Dont overlook EVERY elbow, and one at a time, make sure you have fuel running out the end of the line before you go any further .I'd also check the rubber groments that seal the fuel lines to the filter bases, fuel pump, etc... if these roll when installed, they can block the line and not let any fuel through. Be sure to remove the old ones before putting in the new groments as the old ones can mush into the passageway and act like a rubber plug ,causing an air lock and not letting fuel through. One last thought, be sure you get the arm on the new pump on the correct side of the cam lobe. The pump should have a manual pump lever on it to help prime. Not meaning to sound like a know-it-all, just relaying some of the mistakes and oversights I've made over the years. Good luck and let us know what you find. Thanks, David

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saltherring

03-24-2004 14:43:31

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Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to Bob, 03-24-2004 14:10:54

You've done nothing wrong so far, you just haven't finished the job. Once you have fuel to the sediment bulb (which should be attached to the lift pump), open the vent on the top of the primary fuel filter and pump the lever on the bottom of the lift pump until fuel, with no air bubbles) flows out the vent. Tighten the vent and repeat the process for the secondary fuel filter. Then crack open the two hex-head vents on the side of the injection pump (5/16 hex, I believe) and work the hand pump on the lift pump until only a stream of fuel comes out the ports. Do the lower vent first, tighten it, then bleed and tighten the upper. Then loosen the fuel supply lines (all 3 at once) on the injectors, push the fuel shut-off rod in, crack the throttle wide open and crank the engine until fuel (no air) pulses out of the injector lines. Tighten the lines at the injectors, reduce the throttle to about 1/4 open and crank the engine. It may take a bit, but it should start. If not, repeat the process (you may have some air trapped) and try again. Good luck!

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Bob

03-24-2004 20:15:18

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Re: Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to saltherring, 03-24-2004 14:43:31

Thank you for your thoughtful reply. The info will be most helpful if I get that far. However, the problem that I am having at this point is that fuel will not enter the pump. I took the old pump apart to see how it works, and it has two very simple flap valves that should not restrict the flow of fuel under gravity.
Is this the tractor's way of reminding me of the old rule "if it ain't broke ..."?

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H.T.Hertz

03-25-2004 06:09:14

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Re: Re: Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to Bob, 03-24-2004 20:15:18

Loosen the retainer on the sediment bowl until fuel comes out over the upper edge, tighten again and the hand pump should work from there. Otherwise do it again. The fuel will NOT flow by gravity, the back pressure is too high.

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saltherring

03-25-2004 05:49:59

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Re: Re: Re: 35 fuel pump in reply to Bob, 03-24-2004 20:15:18

I'd like to add a few additional words to the good advice David provided. I would replace every o-ring and washer on your fuel system. Even minor wear and/or imperfection can cause airlocks. I learned this lesson while completing restoration on my MF 65. Make sure you know exactly what you have before you go see the dealer, also. Write down your tractor's serial number and make note of the type of fittings you have. MF made a lot of changes to their fuel systems over the years. Some tractors have banjo fittings in some places while others may have compression fittings. Hope you have it running soon.

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