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Bud, The two smaller connections for your internally regulated alternator (in addition to the big output lug) are field and sense. The field wire is what turns the thing on and the snese line is a high impedence line to "taste" the voltage at the desired destination and allow the regulator to adjust for line loss. Most folks just jump the sense line to the output lug at the alternator since the short wiring on a tractor doesn't amount to much line loss. If you get these two lines crossed, it will make the alternator run all the time and it can get a little warm. Also, if the sense line is realizing any loss through the oil pressure switch, the regulator will try to compensate and up the output voltage (creating an over-voltage condition). The easy way to tell which is which, is... with the tractor motor NOT running but both field and sense lines jumpered to the output lug (battery), make and break the connection to each of the two connections. The field winding will spark since it draws more current (run that one to the oil pressure switch) but the sense line will not draw a spark since it it very high impedence. Your alternator will run with both leads tied to the output lug. They do this in dragsters and call it a one wire alternator. I don't use this configuration for my tractor because it will drain your battery if you leave the key on with the engine not running. Check your e-mail. I'll send you an article on adapting these internally regulated alternators to older tractors. I have a MF-2135 which is the industrial version of your 135. BTW - don't worry about the ground lug. You have a good ground if the alternator is securely mounted to the engine with metal parts (like bolts).
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