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Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot

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Bill Darte

12-30-2004 10:28:35




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Hi.

My 3 point seems to work very well, but the boot is shot on my '70 MF135 with 7/8" thick lift cover. I want to replace the boot, but it is not obvious to me how to do so. Service manual is no help.
The Clevis spins freely though there is a lot of play (up down and sideways) in Control Spring Plunger..... is this normal?

Seems that I have to remove the clevis from the plunger in order to replace the boot. Inside the clevis is something that looks like a large set screw (?) does this have to be removed? How?

Also, if I want to separate the clevis from the Link Rocker, do I have to 'drive' the Rocker Link Bushings from the Clevis? How is this best done? Do you have to heat the assembly?

I'm really a novice at this so any help is very much appreciated....and if anyone is willing to respond, don't take too much for granted about my knowledge. I have none. I'm using the parts manual to come up with the component names above...

Thanks and have a happy new year, all!

Bill Darte
314 935-7575

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Gary in Geneva

01-03-2005 02:43:01




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 10:28:35  
I have a bad boot on my 40B, but do not have the equipment to work on it where the tractor is kept. Since the lift is working I took a plastic 2 liter soda bottle and carved away about a third of the side leaving the end intact. I then punched two small holes in the sides near the bottom and ran a small copper wire over the bottle, through the holes in the side and under the shaft. It has held for the past two years without a problem and is keeping the water out. It does not interfere with the operation and the price is right. I plan to have it fixed next time the tractor is at the dealer for service.

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Bill VA

12-31-2004 20:51:03




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 10:28:35  
Hey Bill,

I replaced the boot on my MF50 and while it looked really difficult, it turned out to be fairly easy. I don"t have my manual in front of me. You need to get, in addition to your parts manual a service manual and an IT manual. From there, you should have no problem!

Good luck,
Bill



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Tom G (OK)

12-30-2004 22:03:00




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 10:28:35  
By reading all of these responses and poring over my service manual, I surmise that the lift cover boot is the rubber boot that surrounds the shaft of the fork thingy that the top link hooks onto. I also deduce that this link is movable so as to send a signal to the draft control to raise or lower the arms as the dirt becomes harder to pull through. It's not as if I ever do any ploughing, but my 2135 also has draft control and the boot is also completely disintegrated (as with Bill, the oil in my rear end gets wet after every rain and I suspect this boot). I bought a new boot, but, that, from the looks of things, is the easy part. With my (VERY) limited knowlege and experience, I'm very reluctant to pull off the entire lift cover (my service manual mentions THREE "special tools"). On top of that reluctance, or perhaps because of it, it looks as if it should be possible to replace the boot without removing the lift cover. Whaddaya think if I:

1) Remove the two special bolts securing the rocker link (that's the link attached to the fork thingy that the top link hooks onto)

2) Loosen the set screw holding the adjusting nut (the set screw is on the right side of the lift cover just forward of the hole that the shaft of the fork thingy goes into(and the adjusting nut is around that shaft))

3) Loosen the adjusting nut (using the silly "special tool FT358" (I haven't figured out if I have to buy one of these things, if I can make one, or if the massey dealer will loan me one)) and remove nut and spring assembly (it also appears to be referred to as the "master control spring assembly").

4) If there's anything left of the boot, pry it forward to reveal a pin which must be removed.

5) Remove the rubber plug in the middle of the fork thingy (pocket knife?) (I guess the fork thingy is called a "clevis").

6) With a large screwdriver, turn plunger out of the threaded housing (under where the plug was).

This should detach the clevis from the plunger and make it possible to replace the boot! Now on to reassembly :( Quoting from the service manual:

NOTE: The master control spring assembly should be checked for correct adjustment before it is installed into the lift cover. A quick check can be made by turning the spring. The spring must be very snug, but still rotate by hand..... ..... .
Screw plunger into clevis and rocker assembly until control spring end-play has just been eliminated. Increase pre-load to the next slot in plunger where pin can be installed. With the master control spring adjusted in this manner, the final adjustment (when the assembly is installed into the lift cover) can easily be obtained. To make the final adjustment to the master control spring, proceed as follows:

5a) Reinsert the master control spring assembly into the lift cover

4a) Using special tool FT358, tighten adjusting nut to obtain no end play by turning nut in or out. NOTE: End-play may be caused by having the retainer nut (adjusting nut?) too tight as well as too loose. The draft control lever must be fully down when making this adjustment.

3a) tighten the set-screw on the side of the lift cover to 40-65 in-lbs. torque. (I plan on tightening the *#%^ out of it)

2a) Reinsert the plug.

1a) Replace the rocker link assembly with the special bolts.

About the only other thing I might think of is to prop up the lift arms before I start the process. D'ya think this will work? I estimate it to take about three hours and thirty cuss words (a unit of measure I never saw in any of my college science courses).

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Ray,IN

12-31-2004 19:47:05




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Tom G (OK), 12-30-2004 22:03:00  
Thanks Tom, I forgot about the spring pin that locks the 9/16" shaft and the adjusting nut together. This is the same slot where the large screwdriver fits also. Isn't it amazing that noone has invented anything better, or even improved upon, Harry Ferguson's hydraulic 3pt lift system? BILL! buy the shop manual, it's the best money you'll ever spend on your tractor.



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Bill Darte

01-02-2005 04:33:25




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Ray,IN, 12-31-2004 19:47:05  
Is the Service Manual and the Shop Manual NOT the same? My manual (from MF) has 10 sections and section 10 is for hydraulics. This speaks briefly about removing and adjusting the control spring assembly, but doesn't go into detail. I would be happy to have manual that gives details related to this stuff. Big Dean's stuff helps too, but still, it's difficult to get the full picture.

bd



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Cosmo

12-30-2004 10:45:48




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 10:28:35  
Bill, don't do anything drastic. If you are new to this forum I suggest you address your questions to Big Dean Austin. A long time MF mechanic and he will guide you step by step. I can't post his address but scroll down til you find one of his posts and it will usually take you to his website.



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DavidP,South Wales

12-30-2004 11:11:58




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Cosmo, 12-30-2004 10:45:48  
Hi Bill,
Good advice from Cosmo to go to Big Dean's site.
It is advisable to have the correct peg spanner to undo and adjust the control spring nut. Don't know if Big Dean mentions it on his site but you will probably find that the 'bolt' inside the spring will be seized inside the rocker likage (don't forget to take the groove pin out first).
The only answer to this is to apply just enough weld between the cup and round head of the bolt to be able to place the linkage in a vice and undo the 'bolt' with the help of a stilson. A lathe is required to turn off the weld after. If the plunger bolt is free then you are lucky but take time and work oil into the thread as you remove it. The thread is very fine and easily damaged. Fit the new boot and adjust up as per Big Dean's pages. There will be a degree of flop when adjusted correctly. It is more important that there is no end-float. Don't overtighten.
Happy New Year from this side of the pond.
DavidP

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Bill Darte

12-30-2004 12:11:53




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to DavidP,South Wales, 12-30-2004 11:11:58  
Well,
Thanks for the advice...though welding and lathes sounds pretty 'drastic' to me.

I will consult Big Dean's site. I have emailed him various times, but hate to return to the well too often and become a pest.

This job actually sound like a job for and MF dealer or experience mechanic to me.

As the 3 point works well, half of me says leave it along and place an old bucket over it if it is to stay outside long (Big Dean's earlier advice)....or remove the entire lift cover and take it to a dealer.

I hate to be this far along (almost completely dissassembled) and not fix something as important as that boot. (all boots are shot and my hydraulic has lots of water in it)....

So what do you think.... Remove it and have it serviced? How much cost? How problematic to remove and replace (correctly)? Any gotchas?

Thanks so much for your responses..and caution.

bd

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Jack in NB

01-02-2005 08:54:01




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 12:11:53  
Hello Bill -

Not a difficult job until you hit your step 6. We've replaced about 6 - and none would unscrew.

We tried cutting the new boot and gluing it back but with no success.

The final approach we used - cut the 8" long bolt about midway with a hacksaw inserted through the spring coils.

This gets the spring out of the way, and allows you to grip the remaining length of the rod in a vise and get some leverage on the clevis to unscrew it (after the pin is removed). Heat on the clevis shoulder may be necessary to do the job. The clevis is tough - we've not broken one - yet. (Not too expensive aftermarket. 180 972 M2.)

The threads on the rod may be ok with cleanup. If so, the rod can be welded back together and the unit reassembled - using grease or neverseize compound on the threads. If the threads are too badly corroded, a new rod is only about $30 aftermarket. "Plunger, Control Spring", 182 580 M1

Since the rubber plug is generally destroyed, we fill the hole with grease after reassembly.

Good luck.

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DavidP, South Wales

01-02-2005 09:55:21




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Jack in NB, 01-02-2005 08:54:01  
Hi Jack,
Drastic method. Never failed to strip one yet by welding cup to plunger and heating and machining out after. Have facilities to do it.
Cheers
David P



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DavidP,South Wales

12-31-2004 10:16:14




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 12:11:53  
Hi again Bill,
Yes it does sound longwinded to do a small job like replacing the boot. I have never done this but it might be worth a try. Once you have the new boot, cut it with a sharp knife front to back as it is in situ. ROughen the edges with some sandpaper or similar. Buy a tube of the best 'rubber' super glue that you can get and VERY carefully apply the glue and join the two halves together around the linkage barrel. Don't attempt to 'fit' either end until you have applied more glue to reinforce the join. If you are successful to this point and are able to get the boot into place it can be further secured by wrapping some copper wire around it or maybe a cable tie. Make sure the join is at the bottom.
If it works.....absolutely fantastic.
Regards
David P, South Wales.

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Ray,IN

12-30-2004 20:44:56




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 Re: Help replacing the Lift Cover Boot in reply to Bill Darte, 12-30-2004 12:11:53  
Disconnect the top fork from the long pin under it. Remove the bolts holding the master control spring to the tractor.Pull the assembly from the tractor and proceed to the work bench. The threaded rod will be frozen into the fork unless you have recently won the lottery too. Remove the small locking set screw(you may find one atop another) from the side of the large threaded nut that holds the spring in the casting. Holding the fork in a vise, use a large screwdriver and attempt to unscrew the 9/16" rod from the fork. That likely was a bust as I had used every penetrant and rust buster known to the auto store. Big Dean told me to weld a large nut to the other end of the rod(it has a conical smooth head) while insuring there is room to use an impact socket. I finally had to use a rosebud tip to heat the fork to a dull red, and a 1" impact wrench on the impact socket. That was the most frustrating 6 hours I've spent working on my MF135. Be sure to install a new ruber boot before reassembling the fork and rod, and a good coating of anti-seize on all threads. I think you'll find Dean's instructions here:

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