Haven't plowed lately, but your operator's manual should tell you how to position your controls to increase your draft pressure so the plow will stay in the ground. You do want to plow in draft for the reasons you stated. ----- ----- ----- ----- With that said you said 7 shank chisel plow.Is your plow a plow or cultivator. If a cultivator, it will not stay in the ground if used as a plow. It is made to cultivate plowed ground. Gonna bet that's the case. I have a 7 shank Haymie plow that takes 70+ hp to run in clay here in N. Texas. Taking several passes to do it, I run the plow down as far as it will go which is about 10-12" deep. You can tell it's a plow as it is a drag implement, shanks are not spring loaded (per se), chisel tips, has lots of weight to it, wheels and hydraulics for transport and depth setting, has a long tongue and tyne spacing (about 8 ft front to rear) allowing the tynes to extend well behind the pull point which keeps them digging, not hopping and skipping. Does not provide continuous cutting. A cultivator is usually short front to rear and usually 3 pt., usually has springy shanks, and has sweeps. Sweeps are sized (width)for continuous soil cutting over the width of the implement. I have one of those too. It has 19 ea 6" sweeps over a 12 foot wide boom. I easily pull it in mid range gears with a 52 hp Ford. The depth is set for the tips to run about 2" under the surface to fluf the soil and kill weeds....of loose, previously plowed, soil. I am fixing to fertilize my pasture for hay planting and after I deposit the fertilizer over the field, I will come back with this cultivator for one last week whack and to put dirt on top of the fert for better efficiency. Then I will drill in my hay seed (with a grain drill). HTH Mark
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