 Why do you want it down and under, instead of up?? Our 165 (earlier model w/ continental gasser) had downward exhaust when we first bought it only because of the loader that wasd mounted. Once the frame broke and we took the loader off, I turned it upright, which only consisted of loosening the 3 bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold and turning it 60 deg. so it was upright. I would never go back, once I almost started a fire raking hay. I was doubling it up, going over a windrow already raked and that got bunched up on the draw bar. I dragged it along for about 20-30 ft before I saw what was going on, and by this time the hay started to smoke and smolder. Also, if a spark would have come out the muffler, it could have caused a he!! of a blaze, consuming a tractor that is one of my favorites now. What engine is on yours? I don't know when they switched to perkins gas engines, but I think it was early in the 70's. For the rear end, it uses a hydraulic/transmission oil. Perma Tran III is what is recommended (made by) MF. You also use this same oil in the power steering.(originally came w/ ATF fluid, but I beleive there were troubles with the o-rings so a service bulletin was put out about it. Best thing to do is get the REAL MF manuals, atleast the operators manual, and if you do your own work buy the service and maybe the parts one as well. I&T are all right, but they leave a bunch of stuff out and generalize for a certain series or bunch of models. For the 165, it also covers the 135 and 150 so it covers 6 or more different engines, 2-3 different PS units, etc. etc...., First thing I'd do, which it sounds like you are doing, is change all the fluids out and grease it. Make sure to look for zerks underneath, both on the front axel and for the brake pedals. If those are ignored, you'll be replacing bushings in short order.
Donovan from Wisconsin
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