Bush hog for my MF135

Bought it to bush hog about 10-12 acres of bottomland....mostly tall grass and very small brush. Grass is crap...canary grass mostly so it don't look like too tough a stuff.

Also I am gonna try to mow some pretty steep hillside....I have a roll bar and harness. May find it is too rough to do though. So I don't know whether I'll end up doing it or not.

Question is.... 5 foot or 6 foot?

5 foot would be a bit more maneuverable and cheaper.

6 foot would have more capacity whether I used it or not. Also, if I spread the tractor out as wide as it will go (6 feet), the 6 footer would mow better maybe(?)

Would the 135 drive the 6 footer OK? Also, would the 6 footer provide more low weight to help stabilize the tractor on the hill?...or does a three point attachment make any difference to the stability?

Anyway, I have very little experience with this and I'm getting ready to buy...so your help is appreciated.

BTW...you help is already appreciated for help in the past...and A GREAT BIG THANK YOU to Big Dean who has hand held me through simple tasks for everyone but me.....

You all have (again) enlightened me. And, Jerry/MT, that was a great post. I completely understand the leverage issues you illustrate. Makes total sense and I will do this.... I know I've seen the weight of a 135 posted here before. Unless someone knows off-hand, I'll go to the archives.

Ultimately I'm thinking that a 'close' estimate will work fine and if I have to err, I will do so with a little more weight up front, rather than in the rear.

Again, thanks to all.

Also, I'll look into stabilizer bars.

The only special thing you'll need for that mower are stabilizer bars/brackets. Mowing became a lot easier once I started using them as the bush hog had a tendency to list to port.

Christos

I don't care much for how perfect a cut job it does, 'cause it is a real mess now.

So, I have NO weights on the front of the tractor and the tires are not filled either.

I was planning on putting a homemade bumper on the front that I could add a box for carrying weight and/or tools in. Should I plan for as much weight up front as the mower weighs? This weight helps counter balance the implement when lifted right...and keeping the front down when mowing up-hill?

When going UP a fairly steep grade, I assume I would want the mower on the ground right?

Usually the mower will have a flex link at the top link connection that allows for some rotation about draft links so when wou go up or down hill the mower is on the ground. It will not cover severe departure angles however so you need to watch out for really severe up and down grade changes.
The weights are just WAGS (wild ... guesses)so you'll have to do someresearch to do it right, just don't overload the tractor.

this combination has mowed absolutely everything I needed to but bogs down in damp heavy clover or stringy stuff, then I just drop back a gear

I moved tires way in till they almost hit the fenders, mower just cuts the width of the rear tires unless you on on a side hill and mower sways a bit to the side

If I ever needed another mower I would get another 5 footer Bushhog Squealer - IMHO

I have a '72 MF 150, Perkins 152-3 diesel. It handle a 6' medium duty Bush Hog cutter like it isn't even back there. The 150 is about 9" longer and several hundred pounds (on the front end) heavier than a 135. Makes all the difference in the world.

Power wise, you probably have enough. Under extreme conditions, just cut slower or don't take a full width cut and you can use a 6'er. I'd be very skeptical about the weight though.

Do you have any idea what brand/model mower you'll be getting? Some light duty mowers are just that.... LIGHT (weight) Even a 6'er won't be too heavy. The same 6' Bush Hog 286 (with both sets of saftey chains) I use on the 150 will bring the front wheels off the ground on my Ford 3000. (About the same chassis lenght as a 135)

Unless you're just bound and determined to get a 6'er, I'd consider the 5'. (And a GOOD heavy (or medium) duty model at that.) I don't care much for lightweight "throw-away" mowers.

And if you're on hillsides, push the rear wheels out as far as you can for added stability. No need to try out that ROPS if ya don't have to.

BTW - It's true a 5' mower doesn't quite cover the wheel tracks. I wonder why no one has come up with a 5.5' mower for Fergusons. Seems like it would be a good compromise between a 5' and 6' mower...