Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Massey Harris & Massey Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Lift Arm Stuck

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Aaron Ford

06-22-2007 14:24:58




Report to Moderator

I have been trying to pull the lift arm off my MF 65 for a few days now. I alternatingly heated and quenched with Kroil to the point that I had oil running out the bottom of the splines but still no luck. Has anyone had any luck with this? The cover is off the tractor if this helps. Thanks in Advance Aaron




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Jerry/MT

06-22-2007 19:30:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to Aaron Ford, 06-22-2007 14:24:58  
Be carefull with the heat Aaron. That's cast iron and you can change the metalurgy of the part with too much heat. Have you tried to see if a gear puller will work?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Aaron Ford

06-22-2007 19:43:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to Jerry/MT, 06-22-2007 19:30:56  
I am heating with a small Walmart Mapp gas torch (similar to a propane torch). It works really well for soldlering pipes, but does not really have the cojones for heavy work. I have a puller stuck on there right now with it's main threaded section bent. I am going in to town and rent a larger puller and perhaps a bearing splitter. This thing has to come off somehow. But first I have to get the smaller puller off. Thanks for the reply. I reckon I was hoping for some miracle quick cure... Aaron

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jerry/MT

06-23-2007 16:11:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to Aaron Ford, 06-22-2007 19:43:46  
Boy in my TO-20/TO-30/TE-20 shop manual, it sounds easy!

"Remove the two cap screws from each end of the hudraulic lift shaft, remove the retaining washers and lift arms and withdraw the shaft."



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
DavidP, South Wales

06-23-2007 00:57:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to Aaron Ford, 06-22-2007 19:43:46  
Hello Aaron,
You don't mention which side you are trying to remove. Have you tried to remove the shaft?Normally it has to be drifted out from right to left as you sit in the seat. If you can remove the shaft the a workshop press will be the answer.
We have had problems with these in the past and even with heat have had to cut the arm with a small angle grinder to remove it. Whilst your heating method may be OK for certain things I don't think that you are getting enough heat in quickly to do any good. If it takes a long time to heat up then you are probably heating the shaft as well. The high heat of oxy-acetylene or similar will heat the arm and you may stand a chance. Try putting a very heavy block under the arm and give it a good hammering where you are able. Extreme, but may just work.
Good luck.
DavidP, South Wales

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Aaron Ford

06-23-2007 06:05:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to DavidP, South Wales, 06-23-2007 00:57:26  
I am trying to take off the adjustment side. I have the cover removed so I cannot say exactly which side that is. I agree that oxy is likely the way to go. The goal in this exercise is to replace the sloppy lift shaft bushings and o-rings. I hope to be able to leave the other arm in posistion. If the pullers do not work, then I will move to the oxy. Thanks Aaron



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Don-Wi

06-23-2007 23:24:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: Lift Arm Stuck in reply to Aaron Ford, 06-23-2007 06:05:53  
Have you tried and PB Blaster? Let it soak for an hour or over night, just to make sure it soaks in. It really is some good stuff. I was replacing a bunch of spike teeth with sweeps on a cultivator i bought this spring and sprayed them down with PB, then started on the 1st one I sprayed with the impact. I only had trouble with 1 that came loose in the tooth then spun, the rest backed right off. They were very rusty and the threads sticking out the back were non existant, and the 2 I tried before the PB would just hammer.

We try to keep atleast 2 cans around on the farm, one in the barn and 1 in the shop.

Donovan from Wisconsin

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy