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MM UB diesel pulling engine mods?

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Mopower

01-22-2003 07:35:03




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I recently purchased a MM UB diesel. I am interested in building a diesel puller. I know there are some UBDs pulling ou there. What is the potential for power without going too extreme? I am thinking M5 4 3/4" bore blocks. That would be maybe 350 cubes. How bout a G crank then making 425 cubes. Gas G cranks may break under diesel use? I have heard of this. What about M670 diesel heads? You diesel guys and MM guys out there throw me some tips? Cams, pump work, porting? Throw some thoughts out there. It could be an interesting discussion.

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David

01-22-2003 11:54:40




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 Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Mopower, 01-22-2003 07:35:03  
We bought a UB diesel pulling tractor last year. We only wanted the short block. It has 5.25" sleeved blocks with a 6.5" stroked G crank.
The guy said it would run real good when it didn't blow a head gasket. He was going to try some 4.75" blocks on it but decided to sell it instead to concentrate on other projects. It has ported 1050 heads, a 5 Star pump that was supposed to be reworked, and a 670 intake. I've already taken the diesel engine out and put in a G engine for horsepower class pulling. The diesel parts may be for sale as we have no real use for them.

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Mike (MI)

01-22-2003 11:51:23




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 Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Mopower, 01-22-2003 07:35:03  
Not to nit-pick, but the M5 has a 4 5/8 inch bore. I don't know much about other MMs, but I'm having a good time rebuilding my 1960 M5 diesel. Can't wait to hear it run again.

Good luck.



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Mopower

01-22-2003 11:58:24




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 Re: Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Mike (MI), 01-22-2003 11:51:23  
Yeah 4 5/8 is correct. We just bored some diesel blocks to 4.75 for my father's U. Good luck on that M5. We have a nice gas one!



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MoCraft

01-22-2003 09:07:07




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 Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Mopower, 01-22-2003 07:35:03  
It is a waste of money to make a UB diesel into a pulling tractor. You will have twice the money and about half the power of a gas motor.

Instead of trying to make ever tractor you have into a "pulling" tractor, get a MM U gas. You can get more power for less money from a U than a R, Z, 4Star, 445, UB diesel or anything else you have setting around.



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Mopower

01-22-2003 10:10:26




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 Re: Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to MoCraft, 01-22-2003 09:07:07  
Good point sir. I didn't get into the hobby for saving money though. I have a U gas. Does real nice for very little money. But also an R, UBD, and Jet Star. I like to see oddball stuff pull. I may just stick with a 4 3/4 bore job and call it good. That should make 60-65 horse and pull stock real well in 6500 class. Anyone else weigh in on diesel stuff?



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Jeremy

01-22-2003 20:24:51




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 Re: Re: Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Mopower, 01-22-2003 10:10:26  
I'm not a diesel expert buy any means. I'd use your 283 heads because they would give you the highest compression ratio. The late 504 heads are supose to have better injectors so if you think you want to change heads for the better injectors look for a set of 451 heads. They should have the same injectors as the 504's and would be very close in compression to the 283's.

Go to some of the pulls and talk to the other Diesel pullers expecally the MM diesel pullers their are some GBD's and GTBD's that pull very well. Those built 425's with nearly 700 CID should out horse a stock 585.

As far as changing blocks the 4 5/8 blocks bored to 4 3/4 would be the way to go but stock classes may not allow the 10A10248 (4 5/8) or the 10A24286 (4 3/8) bolcks. The only block in the parts book is the 10A3006.

There is a little brain food if it's any good or not ????

Jeremy

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Mopower

01-23-2003 04:19:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: MM UB diesel pulling engine mods? in reply to Jeremy, 01-22-2003 20:24:51  
Thanks for the advice. If I stick with just an overbore, I will keep the same heads as you say. This diesel I have has G900 blocks and 5 star pump and injectors now. Needs something tweaked. Timing maybe. Pops a little off and on till it gets good and warm, but not lacking compression. It is a rebuild at about 300 cubes right now. If I decide to go with a G crank, I will try to keep the compression as low as possible and the rpms to stock. I know folks have tried this, but broke some cranks. As most have told me, lotta $$$ money can be shot here. Thanks for the head and injector advice. I may just see how well I can tune it at 300 cubes and call it good. I'd love a decent GBD that is at least complete and stock. Never find one cheap enough though.

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