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MM Identification

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Adam S

02-23-2003 09:43:50




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I am going to start work on a minni mo, but i have little information on it. The plate on the engine says model EE and serial 420576. it is a 4 cylinder tractor with a loader on it. I was just wondering if anyone could help me identify what year and/or model no. it is. Thank you.




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John G

02-25-2003 05:47:32




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 Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-23-2003 09:43:50  
Adam, the PTO from any model R will fit your tractor, and can be installed by taking off the transmission top cover. I have REPRINTS of the Lull loader book for both the RTI and UTI. They are complete manuals with parts illustrations, owners manual, and installation instructions. John



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Adam S

02-25-2003 16:26:41




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 Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to John G, 02-25-2003 05:47:32  
For the loader, that would have a tag on it somewhere i'm guessing, right? Are there any obvious differences between the lull and reese loaders? Thank you for your input.
Adam



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deadeye

02-23-2003 15:00:59




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 Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-23-2003 09:43:50  
There is an ID tage that should be on the right side of the transmission case that should give you the serial number. Get that for us and put it on line. We will go from there. Include all of the letters that may be on that plate also.



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Adam S

02-23-2003 15:17:44




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 Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to deadeye, 02-23-2003 15:00:59  
The tag on the transmission says that it is a model rt1 and serial number 420489. Thank you for your time.



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BMG

02-23-2003 18:35:37




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 Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-23-2003 15:17:44  
Adam,
You've got a 1947 RTI which stands for R Industrial model. Your tractor should have a foot clutch and accelerator pedal. It should also have a fixed width wide front axle and 24" cast center rear wheels. The EE engine was used in all R models and it displaces 165 cubic inches. A similar design but larger displacement engine was used in the Z series tractors also. Ask any specific questions you may have and we can be of more assistance. Popular loader manufacturers include Lull and Reese for the RTI model. I've got 2 RTI with Lull loaders and one RTI with no loader.

Brian

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Adam S

02-24-2003 04:46:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-23-2003 18:35:37  
Is there any specific reason that these models came with accelerator pedals and not throttle levers? Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate your information. If i have any more questions i won't hesitate to ask. Thank you again
Adam



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BMG

02-24-2003 17:00:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-24-2003 04:46:57  
Adam,
For loader work or other industrial applications its more efficient to be able to quickly vary engine speed to change ground speed or get more power. Most of the time the operators hands were on the steering wheel and probably hydraulic levers for the loader or other attachment. The operator could use his feet to give the engine more speed/power and feather the clutch while digging into a pile of dirt with the loader. This would allow him to keep his hands on the wheel and hydraulics. Just imagine trying to run the throttle, hydraulics, clutch and steering all at the same time with your hands.
Just my thoughts. I imagine others have their own ideas.

Brian

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Adam S

02-24-2003 17:28:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-24-2003 17:00:50  
That's a really good point. I never really looked at it that way. Are these good dependable tractors in your opinion? The one I am about to start work on has been sitting for about 15 years, so i'm hoping for the best and kinda expecting the worst. My dad says not to spend too much money on it, but i want to go through the whole thing to make sure evrything is still good. I think it would be a good tractor for around the yard and woods. That you for your thoughts.
Adam

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BMG

02-24-2003 18:10:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-24-2003 17:28:38  
Adam,
The RTI is a nice little tractor in my opinion but I'm somewhat biased as I've got 13 different R models in my collection - mostly complete tractors but some parts machines. The RTI with a loader can be somewhat underpowered. Especially if the engine is tired and the tires are loaded. The Lull loaders I have will lift a house (relatively speaking of course). I think they're rated for 2500 lbs. The foot clutch can get a little tiresome to operate after a while. I think that's because of the low seating position and the tight operator area. The lack of power steering can make moving a heavy load cumbersome. But hey, it's a 50+ year old piece of equipment. What condition is your RTI? Good running shape or in need of a rebuild? You can spend a few dollars inside an R engine. I can help you find most parts other than oversize pistons as they seem to be very difficult to come by. Do you know what type loader you have? I think the Lull's have a tag on the left side loader frame work below the main pivot point. You may like to know that the RTI was the second most popular R model (RTU being the most popular). You may want to check out Brian Ruke's MM R registry for more info.

Brian

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Adam S

02-25-2003 03:46:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-24-2003 18:10:22  
I'm not really sure how bad or good it is. From the outside it doesn't look really bad. I'm going to pull it out when it gets warmer. I'm not sure if it even turns over yet. What do you think would be the easiest way to try to turn it over? I asked my dad how it ran before and he said ok, but he wasn't real sure about it. Did the RTI's have a pto on the back? The one i'm going to be working on has a big cement block on the back so i can't really see the back of the tractor that well. It doesn't look like there is a place for one, but i wasn't sure if there might be a plate or something you take off. I just can't wait until it gets warmer to start working on it to try to get it going. Thank you for all your patience and help and putting up with all my silly questions. Adam

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BMG

02-25-2003 13:23:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-25-2003 03:46:31  
Adam,
The cement block on the back is a counter weight for the loader. You won't be able to use the PTO with the counter weight in place. If you plan to use the loader you should leave the weight in place. Most RTI did not have PTO especially if equipped with a loader but it could be added to any R model if it didn't come from the factory with it. There must be a diamond shaped block off plate on the rear of the trans case that's held on with two bolts. You'd also need the shaft and shifting mechanism that goes in the trans cover. The engagement lever would be at the lower left corner of the dash protruding out of the trans cover. You may want to take off the valve covers on the left side of the engine and make sure the valves are not stuck before trying to turn over the engine. You don't want to break anything.

Brian

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Adam S

02-25-2003 16:23:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-25-2003 13:23:34  
I probably will keep the blocks on, but i was just curious about the pto. Do you think i should try to use the starter to turn it over or just put it in gear and try to pull it or something? Thanks again.
Adam



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BMG

02-26-2003 15:11:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-25-2003 16:23:32  
Adam,
I'd try the starter first. If that don't work with a good 6 volt and heavy cables then I'd put some type of oil or penetrant in the cylinders and try and pull it but not very hard. You can break something if you try pulling it too hard.



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Adam S

02-26-2003 17:08:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-26-2003 15:11:19  
I took the valve cover off today and took a look at the valves. Only 3 of them were stuck. I thought that wasn't too bad considering it's been setting for 15 years. So i got those free without too much effort. I tried taking the starter off too, but that didn't really seem to want to come off so i just soaked it with some wd-40. I was thinking of pouring some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders before i tried turning it over to help it out a little bit. I have another question for you: The air cleaner comes out of the hood on the right side in the front and the exhaust pipe comes out of the hood on the left side in the front, but there is another hole in the hood on the right side in the back, about a foot from the air filter. I can't figure out what it may be for. Thank you for your time.
Adam

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BMG

02-27-2003 18:17:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to Adam S, 02-26-2003 17:08:58  
Adam,
That hole is in all R hoods. It's for a gasoline starter tank if the tractor was equipped to run on tractor fuel. Usually the hole is plugged off from the factory if the tractor is set up to run gasoline. My 1945 RTI is a low compression tractor fuel motor and it has the small gasoline starter tank stil mounted under the hood. The fill spout and cap for the gasoline tank sticks out through that extra hole.
I'd put some type of oil in the cylinders if its been sitting long. I'd plan on doing a valve job eventually since you found stuck valves. They'll probably burn up if they got too rusty on the valve head and seat in the block.

Brian

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Adam S

02-27-2003 19:18:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM Identification in reply to BMG, 02-27-2003 18:17:43  
I probably will end up doing a valve job on it because i got the starter off and come to find out there was actually ice in it. The band that goes around the outside of the starter was all rusted off too. I think i may need to get a new starter. When I had the starter out i put a bar on the flywheel and tried to turn it a litte but it didn't seem to want to budge. I didn't want to put alot of force on it and i was careful with it. So i think i may have to do a whole rebuild to get it turning and running up to snuff. Thank you for your input.
Adam

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