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D**** motor stuck!

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karl f

06-24-2003 11:36:09

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turned motor on utu over last fall and possibly once in the middle of the winter. grabbed the crank the other day to do the same thing (two revolutions min.) and she's locked up tighter than... put some hytran in the cylinders for now, but i'm stumped as to why it locked up so fast...exhuast is covered, only thing missing is radiator... everyone has their own personal remedies for stuck motors...i'm hoping a cheap one like diesel fuel will work!!! and soon...

karl

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Tom in Mo.

06-25-2003 17:06:47

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Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to karl f, 06-24-2003 11:36:09

I've had good luck with Kroil and regular motor oil. Fill the cylinders with fluid of choice and put tranny in 4th gear and rock back and forth with rear tires. If it doesn't break loose, fill it again and wait and try tomorrow. Time is your friend here. It probably is not stuck very hard. I had a stuck Deere once that wouldn't break loose and when the head was pulled it was solid rust. Your's sounds like it is probably a tiny bit of surface rust locking the rings to the cylinder walls.

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daveo

06-25-2003 12:26:16

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Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to karl f, 06-24-2003 11:36:09

Here�s an idea that I have used successfully to prevent an engine from sticking: In 1988 I removed a Chevrolet 283 engine from the car it was in with the intent of storing it for the long term. Since the engine was in good running condition I ran it long enough to warm it to full operating temperature. When I was ready to shut it off I removed the air filter housing, exposing the top of the carburetor. With one hand on the throttle and a fresh quart of 30W engine oil poised above the carburetor with the other hand the engine speed was increased to around 3000 RPM. Next, the oil is dumped into the carburetor where it is sucked into the engine, coating every moving part and metal surface with an oil film. When the last drop of oil is gone from the quart container the ignition is cut if the engine has not already stopped. �Killing it with oil� saved this engine as it was removed from storage last July and put back in a vehicle. It started immediately and is as good as the day I removed it in 1988 & I never even had to clean the sparkplugs!

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Larry Wollum

06-25-2003 19:39:48

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Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to daveo, 06-25-2003 12:26:16

Make darn sure you don't try this with a diesel engine - - it will 'run away'!!!!

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Kelvin

06-25-2003 18:53:38

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Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to daveo, 06-25-2003 12:26:16

The last time I heard of someone doing that, He bent a rod. Oil doesn't compress a bit. You've been blessed by the man upstairs.

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Jim

06-24-2003 20:45:05

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Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to karl f, 06-24-2003 11:36:09

I did almost the same thing as Mr. Manring except instead of brazing a grease zerk on an old spark plug I brazed on a one half inch pipe nipple so I could screw on a pipe coupling that I screwed a one half inch hydraulic hose into of which the other end was inserted in the hydraulic coupler of my GB MM tractor. You will probably have to add some oil to the tractors hydraulic system. I know I did. I did this sucessfully on a MM V-4 valve in head engine on a Uni Tractor this spring. Just had the old GB idling when I pulled the hydraulic lever. The engine did not come loose until I got to the third cylinder. Be sure that you have all the spark plugs removed before starting this procedure. DO NOT use a late model tractor that has hydraulic pressure in the 2000 to 2500 range, serious damage could result!

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Trever Maas

06-24-2003 16:21:55

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Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to karl f, 06-24-2003 11:36:09

Try some Kroil penetrating oil. Diesel would work too but probably would take longer. I've also heard of coke. One stupid guy said that water would work, but he had no luck. So he just took parts off of it. I just got the remainder of the tractor a few weeks ago. The guy had left it sit at a persons place who was doing some repair work on it, and never picked it up.

Then if you have some good traction try pulling it to break it loose instead of cranking it. Are you sure the engine is stuck or the mechanism for the hand crank? I'm pretty sure the UTU's have a chain and gears because of the drop that is needed to go onto the crank. Sometimes the chains get rusted.

Good Luck,
Trever

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karl f

06-24-2003 18:18:34

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Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to Trever Maas, 06-24-2003 16:21:55

definitely the motor somewhere inside. i engaged the clutch, engaged the belt pulley, and put a pipe in between the bolts to mount the pulley..it's stuck!
i can understand a motor sitting for a couple years unattended and uncovered...but this one really urks me! (and since i'm under 60 it's my fault somehow i'm sure)
-karl

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David Manring

06-24-2003 19:36:01

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Re: Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to karl f, 06-24-2003 18:18:34

Yes it is not odd for it to stick. Remember condensation collects on the clyinders and then , you guessed it!The easy but messy way is take a spark plug, bust off the porcelin, bronze a pipe nipple on it and put a grease zert on it. Take off your valve covers, loosen the rocker arms so all the valves will be shut.When your Hy-tran leaks down in the pan one or two Jugs will still be full. These are the ones you pump grease in too force the piston down.
I have done this many times and it works good but you have a mess afterwards!

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Trever Maas

06-25-2003 16:53:30

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Re: Re: Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to David Manring, 06-24-2003 19:36:01

I was going to recommend doing this but I forgot how to make the adapter. We've done it on Z's before.

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bob

06-25-2003 07:15:20

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Re: Re: Re: Re: d**** motor stuck! in reply to David Manring, 06-24-2003 19:36:01

Just make sure the piston you're doing this on isn't at TDC, because you can easily bend a rod or break something if you put too much "squeeze" on it.

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