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MM pulling motor questions

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Pete Brandel

11-10-1998 19:52:24




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I am currently pulling a U with 4.810 bore and 6.160 sroke which equals about 447 cubic inches.I have been reading that they are stroking a U motor as much as 7.5 inches.Some are using IH H rods welded to U small end.I have also been told that there is a rod from A Continental engine that some have been using. My question is what is the journal diameter of an H rod and what Continental rod are they using and from what engine?My engine is apart now and would like to sroke it to 7 inches.I would like to use my old pistons and blocks as they are only three pulling seasons old.With 4.810 bore and 7 inch stroke it would have about 508 cubes.Any answers to these questions would be appreciated.Thanks

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Mike

11-13-1998 22:07:37




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 Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to Pete Brandel, 11-10-1998 19:52:24  
: I am currently pulling a U with 4.810 bore and 6.160 sroke which equals about 447 cubic inches.I have been reading that they are stroking a U motor as much as 7.5 inches.Some are using IH H rods welded to U small end.I have also been told that there is a rod from A Continental engine that some have been using. My question is what is the journal diameter of an H rod and what Continental rod are they using and from what engine?My engine is apart now and would like to sroke it to 7 inches.I would like to use my old pistons and blocks as they are only three pulling seasons old.With 4.810 bore and 7 inch stroke it would have about 508 cubes.Any answers to these questions would be appreciated.Thanks

So that's the secret to making a Moline pull. The Farmall H rods!

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J.R. Smith

11-16-1998 13:30:38




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 Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to Mike, 11-13-1998 22:07:37  

You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.

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Mike

11-16-1998 20:33:52




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 Re: Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to J.R. Smith, 11-16-1998 13:30:38  
: : You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.
: Been there done that. Other than the pistons all other engine parts in my M are right off the shelf. I could see it costing substantially more if you paid someone to do all the work. Otherwise Farmall's are one of the cheapest tractors to build HP with. If you think building a Farmall is expensive, try building an Oliver or JD.

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J. Smith

11-17-1998 09:19:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to Mike, 11-16-1998 20:33:52  

: : : : You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.
: : : Been there done that. Other than the pistons all other engine parts in my M are right off the shelf. I could see it costing substantially more if you paid someone to do all the work. Otherwise Farmall's are one of the cheapest tractors to build HP with. If you think building a Farmall is expensive, try building an Oliver or JD.

I like your clubs' web page, looks like Farmalls are extremely popular in your area. Anyone who does their own work is alright by me no matter what the brand. As you can tell I'm biased toward MM as we farmed with them and my Dad worked for a MM dealer. They have always been reliable for me.

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Keith

11-19-1998 17:41:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to J. Smith, 11-17-1998 09:19:41  
I pull a UB that is 4.81 X 6.18 with flowed 4210 heads and a ground cam. Where we pull and they don't check RPM's you can give the cash to the Oliver's. Where they check RPM's (20%) I can stay with the JD G's that are over 800 cu.in., but generally not beating. Whats best is that their costs come close to 1o grand and mine is less than 5. I do know of a UB in the area which is 4.81 X 7.25 and runs 4th gear from 5500 to 7500. He kicks but. Again the cost of his motor was less than 3 grand. He runs 18.4 X 38's too. For the h.p. you can't beat a MM.: : : : : : : You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.
: : : : : Been there done that. Other than the pistons all other engine parts in my M are right off the shelf. I could see it costing substantially more if you paid someone to do all the work. Otherwise Farmall's are one of the cheapest tractors to build HP with. If you think building a Farmall is expensive, try building an Oliver or JD.

: I like your clubs' web page, looks like Farmalls are extremely popular in your area. Anyone who does their own work is alright by me no matter what the brand. As you can tell I'm biased toward MM as we farmed with them and my Dad worked for a MM dealer. They have always been reliable for me.

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Pete Brandel

11-19-1998 18:38:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to Keith, 11-19-1998 17:41:35  
Keith, The main reason I am asking about Using different rods in a U is because of clearance and rod journal size.My friend Tim built a 4.810x6.5 stroke and use MM rods but had to grind on the right side of crankcase for clearance and had to grind a good 1/4 inch into the camshaft on four spots to clear rods on cam side.If they are building 7 inch stroke motors are they using MM rods or are they using a aftermarket rod of some sort.The only reason i was asking about a IH H rod was a crankshaft grinder told me that a H rod has a journal size around 2 inches compared to 2.57 journal size that a U has.By going to a smaller rod journal size you can offset grind for more stroke and still have a smaller rod for more clearance.If any one has done a 7 inch stroke did you use MM rod or did you use aftermarket rods?Another reason I would like to go to lighter rod is the crankshaft grinder said that the lighter rods and pistons the less stress on crankshaft and more power from lighter parts. We have no rpm limit at our pulls and we run them around 3000 rpm which is asking a lot out of a motor that normally turns around 1500rpm. any help would be appreciated,THANKS
: I pull a UB that is 4.81 X 6.18 with flowed 4210 heads and a ground cam. Where we pull and they don't check RPM's you can give the cash to the Oliver's. Where they check RPM's (20%) I can stay with the JD G's that are over 800 cu.in., but generally not beating. Whats best is that their costs come close to 1o grand and mine is less than 5. I do know of a UB in the area which is 4.81 X 7.25 and runs 4th gear from 5500 to 7500. He kicks but. Again the cost of his motor was less than 3 grand. He runs 18.4 X 38's too. For the h.p. you can't beat a MM.: : : : : : : : : You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.
: : : : : : : Been there done that. Other than the pistons all other engine parts in my M are right off the shelf. I could see it costing substantially more if you paid someone to do all the work. Otherwise Farmall's are one of the cheapest tractors to build HP with. If you think building a Farmall is expensive, try building an Oliver or JD.

: : I like your clubs' web page, looks like Farmalls are extremely popular in your area. Anyone who does their own work is alright by me no matter what the brand. As you can tell I'm biased toward MM as we farmed with them and my Dad worked for a MM dealer. They have always been reliable for me.

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Keith

11-19-1998 17:41:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to J. Smith, 11-17-1998 09:19:41  
I pull a UB that is 4.81 X 6.18 with flowed 4210 heads and a ground cam. Where we pull and they don't check RPM's you can give the cash to the Oliver's. Where they check RPM's (20%) I can stay with the JD G's that are over 800 cu.in., but generally not beating. Whats best is that their costs come close to 1o grand and mine is less than 5. I do know of a UB in the area which is 4.81 X 7.25 and runs 4th gear from 5500 to 7500. He kicks but. Again the cost of his motor was less than 3 grand. He runs 18.4 X 38's too. For the h.p. you can't beat a MM.: : : : : : : You must either be joking or be really misinformed Mike. The only reason anyone would use a Farmall H rod in a U Moline is because it happens to fit the crank journal not because of its so called "power improving ability".Personally I would have custom billet rods made before I would use any part of a Farmall. Just knowing it was there would make me cringe. Molines machines of the highest quality and can be modified to pull and pull well using strictly MM parts. Try building a 100+ HP M Farmall and see what you spend. A U Moline can be built from shelf parts, have the same HP output and cost about a third of the M engine. If you pull you have probably been beaten by a Moline. If not come to Tennessee and try mine. Don't say something as generic as a Farmall H rod is what makes a real tractor pull better. what makes a Moline pull well is built in it's called QUALITY.
: : : : : Been there done that. Other than the pistons all other engine parts in my M are right off the shelf. I could see it costing substantially more if you paid someone to do all the work. Otherwise Farmall's are one of the cheapest tractors to build HP with. If you think building a Farmall is expensive, try building an Oliver or JD.

: I like your clubs' web page, looks like Farmalls are extremely popular in your area. Anyone who does their own work is alright by me no matter what the brand. As you can tell I'm biased toward MM as we farmed with them and my Dad worked for a MM dealer. They have always been reliable for me.

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J.R. Smith

11-11-1998 10:49:56




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 Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to Pete Brandel, 11-10-1998 19:52:24  
In my conversations with a fellow MM puller,he stated that Vision Motorsports in Lima Ohio currently builds an 8" stroke engine for a U. I assume they take a LE-401 G crank and stroke it 2". He didnt know what rod was being used. Sounds like this engine would sure be a thumper. Are you from Minnesota ? I think I saw your rig in Hook magizene. Visions' phone# in in the Hook also. Are the 4.810 pistons you currently use made by Jahns. I am currently debating on purchasing a set and wonder how well they hold up as I want to build a reliable engine. Best of luck to you fellow MM puller.

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Pete Brandel

11-11-1998 19:25:11




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 Re: Re: MM pulling motor questions in reply to J.R. Smith , 11-11-1998 10:49:56  

: In my conversations with a fellow MM puller,he stated that Vision Motorsports in Lima Ohio currently builds an 8" stroke engine for a U. I assume they take a LE-401 G crank and stroke it 2". He didnt know what rod was being used. Sounds like this engine would sure be a thumper. Are you from Minnesota ? I think I saw your rig in Hook magizene. Visions' phone# in in the Hook also. Are the 4.810 pistons you currently use made by Jahns. I am currently debating on purchasing a set and wonder how well they hold up as I want to build a reliable engine. Best of luck to you fellow MM puller.

I am from south cental Minnesota.The Jahns pistons have been in my U for 5 years and look the same as the day I put them in. I want to go bigger on my U because we have tough competition from 3 other U"s and a Oliver 88.

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