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MM UTS Over -heating

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Brian

08-28-2001 12:46:27




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I have a 1946 MM UTS with the KEF engine. The engine runs great and has alot of power.

It doesn't leak water into the crank or burn it out the exhaust, but it runs very hot. I have had the radiator off 5 times and flushed out. I have 35 pounds per square inch of flow in the radiator. I have checked the water pump and it seems to be fine. I have checked the exhast manifold to ensure it is in the "cold" position and it is. I think that the temp gage is off, but even so, when you shut the tractor off it steams out the cap which means it is close to the boiling point.

Any suggestions?

Brian

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ryan

08-28-2001 13:37:23




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 Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Brian, 08-28-2001 12:46:27  
I tell you what I do on just about every tractor when I have the antifreeze out of it. I knock out the two freeze plugs on the side of the blocks and take the hoses loose from the radiator. I then get my power washer up to 240 degrees and run water through that rascal. Alot of times they have at least of inch of scale in there that will come out. Also take the peacocks out of the side, I work it from every directions shooting water in and out. For the radiator I take the pressure nozzle off and run just really hot water through there and that usually brings alot of mud out. I have also taken off that water manfold from the side of the engine, it could be that you are not getting flow around the bends in that, the velocity would have to drop going into those jugs. I would take that off and power wash here, if you dont' have a powerwasher you can get alot with a garden hose.

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Charlie Biler

08-28-2001 15:16:07




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 Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to ryan, 08-28-2001 13:37:23  
Sirs,
I agree completely about the need to flush the block and radiator base. I do the same as a matter of principal, even if there is no heatup.

Now for my two cents; do you have a thermostat in the tractor? If you do, I suggest you change it. Every auto parts store I have seen sells the wrong thermostat. Make sure the thermostat has a bypass hole with the little wiggler in the hole. I make my own thermostats, starting with a Stant stainless unit and a little modifying. Look in the radiator and visually make sure the water is flowing. with no thermostat, the top of the radiator should look like the Colorado river in the spring. As for the manifold setting; that is simply a heat exchanger setting for the intake air. Unless you are operating with low grade fuels, or it is ten below zero, let it set on cool. The only time I ever saw one set to medium was when I was a little pup and my family was grinding feed with our FTA. The 403 engine was operating outside at full throttle when it was about fifteen below zero. The exhaust manifold was red around the exhaust ports but the intake began to freeze and the tractor was losing power. My grandfather quickly pulled the clutch, put the manifold to medium, and after a few minutes we where back to work. That is the only time I ever saw that feature used. I keep all of mine free and ready...just in case. Finally check the fan and fanbelt. Is it pulling air and sounding like a turbine?

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Brian

08-29-2001 08:45:05




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 Re: Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Charlie Biler, 08-28-2001 15:16:07  
I don't have a thermostat in the tractor. When I look in the radiator I see movement but not to the degree that you described. Does this suggest that there is blockage in the block or that the water pump isn't doing its job? Is there a spec. on how big the fins on the water pump should be?

Brian



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Charlie Biler

08-29-2001 18:47:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Brian, 08-29-2001 08:45:05  
Sir,
In that case I would flush everything and check the pump impeller. I hade never seen one bad and I am guessing what you have is a plugged coolant system in the block area.



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Brian

08-29-2001 20:15:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Charlie Biler, 08-29-2001 18:47:56  
Charlie,

Thank you for your responses. I feel that your thoughts are probably correct and I will have to flush the block. I may disaassemble the head and the block completely, but I all so thought that I could take a long piece of radiator hose and bypass the radiator and use an acid flush in the block only so that I don't cause any leaks in the radiator. I would connect the hose on both ends and fill the system through the temp sensor hole with water and acid. I would then run the tractor for a minute to circulate the acid. I would let it sit for short time and flush it with water. What are your thoughts on this idea. I am only bringing it up because I don't think that just running water through it will remove the clog since I have been running it hot and under preasure for several hours now.

Brian

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ryan

08-30-2001 08:28:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Brian, 08-29-2001 20:15:51  
probably what is plugging your blocks and or heads is scale, I doubt acid would do any good in that case, you need to get a couple freeze plugs out and blow it out of those freeze plugs, it is not uncommong to get a couple of handfuls of rust/scale out of a jug.

ryan



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Charlie Biler

08-30-2001 07:06:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: MM UTS Over -heating in reply to Brian, 08-29-2001 20:15:51  
Sir,
I normally avoid the acid to clean blocks. First, it is the best way to eat a water pump bellows seal. Second, most clogging is always around gaskets. If something eats gaskets; it will eat through gaskets. I would just use the pressure flush method and, if things are still running hot, do a regasket teardown and apply the final solution.



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