NAA starting problem

1) hot coil, kinda normal, most people never go round feeling their coil so they don't ever realize, they do run warm to the touch and get hot if the key is left on. The round coil is much more robust than the square frontmount ignition coil of the 9Ns, 2Ns, 8Ns, so off the top of my head I don't think you really have a coil problem.

2) condensor is usually fairly reliable but they always sell 'em with bubble pack of points, 6 or 12 volts, no matter the're 200 volt condensors.

3) your "ballast" resistor is part of the 12 to 6 volt conversion. It is a cheep way to do the job because resistor is cheaper than a proper 12 volt ignition coil. Your choice, get a real 12 volt ignition coil that is designed to run straight without any ballast resistors, OR continue to use a good 6 volt coil with yer current good 12 to 6 volt converting resistor.

Myself, I'd use a real 12 volt coil. CAUTION: Ford is selling a generic 12 volt coil that requires a resistor, thats not the one you want. You may have to go to a "hotrod" shop to get a real 12 volt coil.

4) runs fine until it quit, don't they all? (grin) this is a little more tricky to dianogose. Anywhere from dead battery again, bad ignition switch, bad wiring, bad ignition points, bad coil, bad ballast resistor. Now don't go replacing parts wiily-nilly because then you'll never know. Get a $10 voltmeter from your local mega-hardware store and start verifying that you have electrics all the way thru to the ignition points. When you loose your volts, figger out why and fix it..... ....Dell

Ignition coil 101. Ignition coils are a class of transformers called auto-transformers, meaning they have a common internal terminal to both the primary and the secondary windings.

Unfortunately, there is no good or eazy shadetree mechanic test for ignition coils with meters. It takes specialize lab grade electronic test equipment, most dealers don't want their mechanics squandering time muckin'round testing coils, its replace 'em if'n any doubt.

About the only tests a shade tree mechanic can do is determine coil continituty. Most coils have about 1 ohm primary winding resistance and about 5000 ohm secondary winding resistance. Most ohm meters are not very accurate in reading less than 1 ohm. And yet a fraction of an ohm change in the primary could mean loss of several Killovolts in the secondary and not enuff for the sparkies. Which is why, if'n in doubt, replace 'em..... ...Dell