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The old Ford 8N won't run .....

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Oak Ridge

03-22-2000 20:10:22




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I have a 52' Ford 8N ,6 volts system and it was overhauled last fall ran just fine all summer. I used it about 3 weeks ago to disc up the garden and I noticed that it seemed to start up and miss a little but then after it warmed up it ran ok then I put it back in the barn and went out to start it up the other day and it wouldn't start so i check the gasoline and it was fine and then i drained the gasoline in the filter under the gas tank and also the carb. drain plug and put in fresh gas in but it still wouldn't run ... when i crank it ...it just take on little shot and it coughs but it won't start I checked the spark it seem a little weak on the front and back plugs but seem stronger on the two middle plugs when I took the spark plugs out and cleaned them they were fouled up black and soot and then i checked points and they were ok I set them at .025 now they are new points and cond.but the distributor is old and the spark plug wires and coil. Well I made sure that all the spark plugs wires were on and i did notice that the coil wire was bad on one end so I replaced it ....I Do think that I have probably flooded it trying to start it ,but do you think that it jump time or what???? Is the coil bad ???? Help Help Help..... what to do???? any help would be appreciated.....

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JONTHAN NORRIS

03-06-2001 08:59:28




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 Re: The old Ford 8N won't run ..... in reply to Oak Ridge, 03-22-2000 20:10:22  
` MY DAD IS A MACHANIC SO IASKED HIM AND HE SAD TO CHECK THE COMPRESION IN THE MIDDLE



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Nolan

03-23-2000 10:51:08




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 Re: The old Ford 8N won't run ..... in reply to Oak Ridge, 03-22-2000 20:10:22  
I really doubt you've jumped timing, especially from your description. When timing jumps, it results in an abrupt and immediate problem. You're describing a gradual degredation instead.

It's significant to me that you were able to drive it fine once it warmed up, and drive it to put it away. This leads me away from the fuel system. It does lead me towards both compression and electrical.

You can do an effective compression test with just your thumb over the plug holes. If you can seal it with the engine cranking, compression is low. If it gets by your thumb, compression is probably ok. I would just knock this one out of the way quickly to be sure.

I suspect you've got electrical problems. Not necessarily ignition problems either. I'd start at one side of the battery, and walk the circuit all the way around to the other side of the battery, examining the condition of all the connections. Making sure adequate electricity is getting to the starter motor to spin it over well, and to the distributor for good spark.

New points and new condenser, ok, but are they any good? I've had brand new points be defective, and coils. Check them to make sure they actually operate, and not just that they look good to the eye.

Weak spark, especially on the end cylinders. Ok. How straight is that distributor shaft? Check the point gap on all four lobe points. With the cap off, you can also spend some time admiring the spark coming out of the coil from each of those lobes. Watch it and see how consistent it looks. If it is weak, figure it out and fix it.

Examine the spark at the ends of each of the plug lines. The spark should be the same. If it's not, figure it out and fix it.

Normally, bad plug wires ensure short circuiting. But on N's, I've been amazed at how bad the wires can be, and the engine still work. Mine is a great example of this. I speculate it's because of the low compression. Regardless, these engines are very tolerant of poor wires.

You may well be flooded. Darned if I can figure out how you can flood an updraft carburetor, but you certainly can. It will work by the rings eventually. But cranking the engine with the plugs out helps a lot. Have a care with sparks under these conditions. It's a remote chance, but I wouldn't care to have a spark plug sitting on top of the engine ignite a cylinder, blowing the spark plug into the gas tank.

Take some breaks for thinking. Kick back, have a cup of coffee, and ponder things every once in a while as you work out the problem. You'll find it, and be a better mechanic for it.

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Jack Hamm

04-05-2001 12:07:07




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 Re: Re: The old Ford 8N won't run ..... in reply to Nolan, 03-23-2000 10:51:08  
It sounds to me like you may have water in the carb.pull the plug in the bottom of the carb.catch the gas and check for water,esp.if the tractor has set for awhile in winter months.



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Claus

03-23-2000 04:18:22




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 Re: The old Ford 8N won't run ..... in reply to Oak Ridge, 03-22-2000 20:10:22  
When I saw .025" spacing on the points a flag went up.. I checked the IT Manual and sure enough, it states .025". This is incorrect, the point gap should be .015... In the old days if one did not have a feeler gauge, one could use a matchbook cover. These were amazingly accurate at .016" You are not going to get the correct dwell at .025". The coil would not even come close to saturating.
Happy Motoring
Claus

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