More coil questions

I just put the new coil in the '51 8N (6-volt sidemount-distributor system still intact).

Question for Dell, and I know this will sound dumb but I'll ask anyway: You wrote before that the coil terminals will be marked with + and -, and you told me how to connect them. But it's not so marked; it only has one of its terminals labeled, BAT. Now, considering that it's one of those "generic" coils from the NH dealer, made to suit 6V or 12V (with resistor), and the 12V systems are presumably negative ground but my good old girl is still positive ground, which terminal gets connected to what? I went ahead and connected the BAT terminal to the line coming from the terminal block and ignition switch, then I connected the unlabeled terminal to the little distributor wire.

Still no spark, which puts me exactly back where I was, having now replaced the coil, distributor cap, spark plugs, condenser, and plug wires.

While I'm asking questions, the plug wires (and high-voltage wire from distributor) I put on are those do-it-yourself kind you buy at TSC, where you cut the wires to the right length and then install the crimped connections. Anyone have any bad experiences with these?

She did run for the first week I owned her (one month ago); then she started cutting out after about two minutes of running, and she hasn't run since. I'm just glad the final stoppage was close enough to the garage for me to push her in!

Thanks,

Andy

What you need to do to find out where the problem is this. Open the distributor cap and turn the engine until the points are open. Turn the ignition switch on and then with a screwdriver make a circuit across the two points. When you take the screwdriver away their shoule be a spark from the high tension wire that comes out of the center of the ignition coil when it is held about a quarter inch away from some grounded metal part of the tractor. the distributor houshing will do fine. If there is no spark from the place where the screwdriver makes contact between the two points then you arent getting power down there it the points. If it will fire when the screw driver is used to make up the points contacts then you should turn the engine over and hold the high tension wire close to the ground as before. If it won't fire now it is the ignition points that are not making contact because of foriegn matter on them or carbon buildup etc.

If you have no fire at the points at all then remove the screw that carried the current into the distributor on the side and take off the flat copper conductor that is connected to the points. Then see if when you touch the end of the distributor wire to the side of the distributor there is a spark. If there is then the insulator at the entrance to the distributor is shorted. You can just run the wire directly to the points by running the wire throught he hole where the screw was and then put a dab of silicone glue over the hole till you can get a new insulator.

These insulators are famous for failing and making people crazy.

The Coil primary and secondary "commom" connection is "always" connected to the BATTERY regardless of Polarity. The Common on the Front mount is the Top (bat) connection, The Common on the 6V Side mount is the BAT Term, The Common on 12V coils is the + connection

Just my .02

Thanks for the tip. I'm afraid I'll have to replace the ammeter to take advantage of the advice... it didn't work during the one week the tractor ran for me.

Andy

Its fundamental 101, no PH.D. required.

JMHO

The issue is not of design but that you can not simply flip a designed coil,that has a common connection, backwards. I checked 5 coils (front mount, side mount, Ford 12V- 79 linc,Ford 12V- 88, GM and they "all" have the common connection on the "intended" Battery connection of the primary.

JMHO

If we keep putting up with this kind of product it will only increase. At least if you sell junk you ought to be prepared to service it.

Your mileage may vary

Incorrect coil polarity with respect to battery polarity can cost you as much as -25% in lost sparkies, but generally just about -10%.

Lets get you running first and worry about coil polarity later. Inotherwords, its not that critical. BUT it does affect the life of ignition points and sparkplug gaps.

I would interpert BATT on a coil terminal to mean positive. Therefore, since your 8N is originally positive grounded, I would wire up the coil BATT terminal to the distributor points connection which is the same as BATTERY GROUND which is connected to the battery positive post..... ...Dell

Perhaps that is what isn't working.

Andy