4.5v with points closed ---- sound right?

Let me preface this. I have a complete 12V system.
Wires are clean, bright and tight. Unit burns no oil, no smoke, 120s on compression on all 4, gas flow is unobstructed getting to carb - battery is new. New wires (copper core), plugs (437s), distributor, cap, points, rotor, coil.

things that haven't been replaced: ignition switch, condensor, dont know if points are properly adjusted. (egads!)

Question 1:
Got exactly 4.5v with tractor not running - points closed. (insert stupid question here) How do you crank the engine manually without being able to push it (has hog attached and is in barn -I guess I can move it out if needed) ----

Question 2: Trying to isolate a CONSISTANT sputter/pop/stalling problem I am having. Seems to stop stalling when I put the clutch in (especially after hogging for sometime - problem seems worse with new 437s - seemed to run better on the 216s --- any logic to that????? )

Question 3: Have not cracked open the carb (I am fearing that this unit is one of the primal factors in this) -
Is a carb rebuild (with new kit) a nightmare to perform? Explain.

Question 4: I am not ruling out sitcky valves - but I am getting 120 across all 4 cylinders with a compression test. I have not pulled the exhaust manifold but I cannot detect any cracks or leakage. Should I be looking in this area?

Thanks for any and all info. Andy

Good luck

1) to move the engine with out rolling the tractor, most put the engine in neutral and if'n the fanbelt is tight enuff, eather pull on the fan blade or put a wrench on the generator nut and pull the engine around. But with your "braggin rights" compression, you might have to loosen your sparkplugs to do it by the belt.

2) Check your sparkplug center insulators, if'n the're white, you may want to use 216's. 437's are typically needed on wornout oilburners, I don't think with 120# your engine is wornout. Your miss could well be too lean carb, that is why you need to check your sparkies first.

3) Carb rebuilds are not difficult specally with a fullkit and good instructions. Check the net for a very good carb rebuild page. (gack, can't remember the address, do a search) Howsomever, one of the original N-Board contibutors used to claim that 80% of all carb problems were found in the ignition system.

4) NO sticky valve problems.

The problem with carbs is, they have these real neat handy-dandy adjusting screws out in the open just tempting you to reachout and tweek 'em. Theres alot of blackmagic mumbo-jumbo that I chant over mine when I adjust carbs. They're really not mysterious, I can't remember when I last adjusted mine..... ..Dell

The symptoms you describe - stuttering, lack of power, &c - speak strongly to the need for a carb rebuild. Sounds like blocked jets, incorrect fuel level or possibly poor adjustment of the main needle. A carb rebuild is no great problem, and the latest N-Newsletter has an excellent article on just how to do it and all the pitfalls.

HTH

llater,

llamas

I have a true 12V coil with a 10SI Delco Alternator, etc. I am getting 4.5V at the top of the 12V coil with the points closed --- isn't that too little for a 12V coil????? ??

What should the V be on a true 12V coil system with the points open?

Thanks!
Andy

Jim

To repeat: for a real frontmount 12 volt coil, you want about 10 to 11 volts at the coil terminal with the points closed. (9 min, 11.5 max) and battery volts with the points open, anyother value is going to give you sparkie problems. And to get that value, you need a different ballast resistor than that on the backside of the dash panel.

About 0.4 to 0.5 ohms at about 20-25 watts. As you can tell, the values are not too critical, what ever the real electronics store will sell you anywheres close should work.

The OEM ballast resistor has too much resistance and will NOT work..... ..Dell

Good Luck.

A thought experiment illustrating the concepts of entropy. We have a container of gas which is partitioned into two equal sides; each side is in thermal equilibrium with the other. The walls and the partition of the container are perfect insulators. Now imagine there is a very small demon who is waiting at the partition next to a small trap door. He can open and close the door with negligible work. Let's say he opens the door to allow a fast-moving molecule to travel from the left side to the right, or for a slow-moving molecule to travel from the right side to the left, and keeps it closed for all other molecules. The net effect would be a flow of heat -- from the left side to the right -- even though the container was in thermal equilibrium. This is clearly a violation of the second law of thermodynamics.

So where did we go wrong? It turns out that information has to do with entropy as well. In order to sort out the molecules according to speeds, the demon would be having to keep a memory of them -- and it turns out that increase in entropy of the maintenance of this simple memory would more than make up for the decrease in entropy due to the heat flow.

My favorite law in physics! Life is a tale told by an idiot full of sound and fury signifying nothing. RELAX.

In case you've never seen one, this device is a T-shaped piece of pipe with a source of compressed air plumbed into the center (the upright piece of the 'T'). Out one end (one arm of the 'T') comes very cold air. Out the other end comes warm air.

Claus was rightfully upset at some of fallacies presented that were in direct opposition to the laws of physics.

You RELAX and keep your insulting and self-righteous prose to yourself.

Andy

I used two original resistors (9N 12250) in parallel to give me just less than 11 volts at the coil (engine not running, points closed).

This gives me something less than 13 volts with the engine running.

Good Luck, Jim