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Leaking juice at the coil
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Andy - Hammond,

07-17-2001 17:18:01




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I have a 12V system. 12V coil, SI-10 Delco Alternator, 12V battery on my FMD 8N.

I tested my voltage again today at the coil with the points closed. (tractor engine off) The initial voltage reading was ~6.75v - then it slowly dropped (while I was reading the voltage!) - checked it again by turning the key, now it was at 5.0v and dropping while the probes were attached. Then the 3rd check, voltage was 4.5v and dropping slowly. Voltage across battery posts remain ~10.5-11volts - headlights remain bright as normal - no problem there.

What direction should I go in to solve this problem. I am absolutely convinced that the recent surging and stalling problems are definately electrical (since choking does not remedy the problem in anyway) What is causing the drain?

Please help in anyway possible. Wires are clean, bright and tight. System has been reporting the following problems:

sluggish performance
losing power (not enough to spin up pto with load)
surging/stopping sputter

Thanks for any and all input!
thanks

Andy

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Charlie in TX

07-18-2001 06:18:40




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 Re: Leaking juice at the coil - Please Read! in reply to Andy - Hammond, LA, 07-17-2001 17:18:01  
Andy, I believe Dell is leading you down the right path. To prove it to yourself, short the balast. If this clears up you problem, Dell nailed it. But if you leave it shorted, you will burn that coil up so don't do it for more than a couple of minutes.



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johnboy

07-17-2001 19:33:33




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 Re: Leaking juice at the coil - Please Read! in reply to Andy - Hammond, LA, 07-17-2001 17:18:01  
Lets See what this adds up to!! 12 volt coil + 4.5 volts at the coil
----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- --
surging and stalling problems

Sounds like you are missing a few volts



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Dell (WA)

07-17-2001 18:37:16




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 Re: Leaking juice at the coil - Please Read! in reply to Andy - Hammond, LA, 07-17-2001 17:18:01  
Andy, Andy, Andy..... .....that change in frontmount ignition coil voltage over time from 6.75 volts down to 4.5 is just EXACTLY what your OEM ballast resistor is supppost to do.

Fords Better Idea..... .6 volt ballast resistor concept takes into account the starter loading effect on the original 6 volt weakknee wetcell battery that looses volts when it is trying to crank the starter over specially in cold weather with stiff oil and cold weakened battery.

To compensate Fords Better Idea team came up with a metal that has the property of changing resistisance with heat. ie...when it is cold, it has low resistance, but as the current flows thru the resistance it actually heats up and as it heats up, the resistance actually increases and cuts down on the current flow and reduces the voltage to the ignition coil.

Which is exactually what you are reporting.

NOTE: this is all AUTO-MAGICAL and it is done on purpose.

Now then, I concurr that your problem is electrical ignition related.

You have been advised previously that you have TOO MUCH resistance in the ignition circuit. BUT you still need some resistance in the ignition circuit or you will burn out your 12 volt frontmount ignition coil.

AGAIN I tell you, you want to measure about 10 to 11 volts (11.5 max) at the 12 volt frontmount ignition coil terminal. Any other value is going to give you sparkie problems, as you are currently experiencing. The 6 volt OEM ballast resistor mounted on the backside of the dashpanel is too much resistance.

Change its value to about 1/2 by connecting another OEM ballast resistor side-by-side so that some of the current goes through both resistors at the same time. This is known as "parallel" connection. This means that each ballast resistor gets about 1/2 of the current that flow throught the ignition coil wire.

Do it like I tell you and you will fix your sparkie problems. Do not second guess me because I am right..... ..Dell

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Phil (AZ)

07-17-2001 19:16:17




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 Re: Re: Leaking juice at the coil - Please Read! in reply to Dell (WA), 07-17-2001 18:37:16  
Andy, I agree "finally" with Dell, if you have an 12 Volt (so called) coil it will measure > 3.0 Ohms, but make sure that it is indeed hi-inductive (>3.0) before messing with your Ballast Resistors. What you must remember is that they are current limiters and are only resistive over a "small" Range and then they fail and resistance decreases. Finding the correct combo for 12V is very complicated. I have a response curve for the standard Ballast(done by someone on this board 2 years ago) that "seems" correct and would post it but my site at P-Point is gone.

Hope this Helps,

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