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Oil pressure overheating

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Rose

07-22-2001 05:38:03




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We have an 8N and 5.5 acres of land. After about 3 times around the pasture, we loose oil pressure, the needle in the gage is in the "red" and it over heats, steem comes out of the radiator. I took the cap off and water went about 15 feet in the air. There is no theromostat in the tractor, took it out. made no difference. going up hill it wants to stall, have to lift the brush hog to high position. very little power. any suggestions would help. Thanks.
Rose

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Steve IA

07-22-2001 12:20:52




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 Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 05:38:03  
Since nobody else brought it up; It's easy to overfill the radiator, and when the engine heats up normally, the coolant expands and steam escapes making it look like it's overheating. Fill only so you can't see the core anymore then check for flow as someone else suggested. If you can touch the coolant with your long finger, you probably have too much. 2nd, I would question the oil pressure gauge. All N's lose some oil pressure as they heat up. How much is ok is arguable. Your gauge has colors, green white red, Does it have numbers to go with the colors? Most of us can relate to oil pressure complaints if we have a gauge reading in pounds. You might want to spend a few bucks and get a numbered gauge to see what ya got before jumping to conclusions. If ya got numbers, come on back and you'll get plenty of advice and maybe even some help. My 2˘. Steve 8N 169302

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Ed Gooding (VA)

07-22-2001 07:52:54




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 Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 05:38:03  
Rose, this is a long shot, but the easiest to check. You imply that you are mowing or bush hogging. Have you checked to see if your radiator fins are getting clogged with grass bits, seed, etc.? That will cause your engine to overheat and your oil pressure will drop as the oil thins out when it gets really hot. Are you running straight 30-weight oil? You can buy a grill screen to protect the radiator, or even make one in a pinch (just make sure it will flow air), or you'll have to stop every once in a while and just clean it..... ..if this is your problem. A compression check of the engine will help determine if the engine is really "tired" or if you have valve-related issues or a blown head gasket.

Good luck with it..... ..Ed
'52 8N475798

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Rose

07-22-2001 09:39:52




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 Re: Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Ed Gooding (VA), 07-22-2001 07:52:54  
Ed,
How do I do a compression check? Sorry so dumb. We did check the raditor, changed oil, water pump, new plugs, new wires, new distribitor cap. new points. It just gets hot, steams, and I shut it down. Oil pressure starts in the "green" then in about 15 minutes it is in the "white" then about 10 min. later it is "RED" I shut it down let it cool off and repeat the process. It sucks to mow like this. Thanks in advance. Rose

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Ed Gooding (VA)

07-23-2001 04:45:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 09:39:52  
Hi Rose: Sears sells a general use compression tester that you can use on your tractor and cars. You can check it out and buy it if you like by clicking here.

Here's how to use it to test the compression on your N:



First, pull all the plugs. Make sure the switch is off, nothing like a surprise spark or shock to ruin a day! Make sure that your transmission is in neutral! Do the test with the throttle wide open. To avoid potential damage to the ignition wires, cap, rotor, and coil, either ground the coil wire, or disconnect the wire powering the coil (a piece of heavy paper between the points will work, too). Have a tablet and pencil handy. Start with the number one cylinder, the one at the front of the engine. Use a screw-in compression tester, they seem to be more reliable and easier to use that the "hold it down real tight" ones. You may have to do two sets of tests. The first test is called a “dry test”. Install the compression tester in the spark plug hole and spin the starter for a few seconds until the tester gauge reading won't go any higher. Do this for all four cylinders. Record your findings as you go. If all cylinders give readings of 90psi or better, AND all cylinder readings are within +/- 10% of each other, then the engine is in good shape, compression-wise, and you no further testing is needed. If any seem low, like below 90, 85 maybe, do the test again. If they are still low, then the “wet test” is in order. Squirt about a tablespoon of oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Run the test as you did for the “dry test”. If the readings on the previously “low” cylinders go up, then piston rings might be in order for replacement (compression is leaking past the piston rings). If they don't go up, it generally indicates that the valves need repair (compression is leaking through the valves because they are not seating air-tight). One thing that is important for a smooth running engine is for all the numbers to be within 10% of each other. Better to have an engine that hits 85 on all four than one that is 70 on one and 95 on another.

Come back and tell us the results (both dry and wet) and we can offer suggestions on where to go from there.

Best of luck with it..... ...Ed
'52 8N475798

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Andy - Hammond, LA

07-23-2001 06:49:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Ed Gooding (VA), 07-23-2001 04:45:19  
Thanks, ED. That great article is getting printed out and stored in my 8N binder. Thanks for all of the effort and consideration.

Regards.
Andy



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Ed Gooding (VA)

07-23-2001 06:55:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Andy - Hammond, LA, 07-23-2001 06:49:01  
Hi Andy! Thanks, but no big deal here. I just copied & pasted a link to Sears, and did a copy & paste from a post by one of our other forum members here (sorry, don't remember the original poster).

Take care..... ...Ed
'52 8N475798



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Claus

07-22-2001 07:19:35




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 Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 05:38:03  
Safety First....Never, I repeat never open the radiator cap on any vehicle after it has been runnning for a while. You could have had a face full of boiling liquid. If the Radiator cap is in good shape and it did not blow, then the pressure did not go over 4 psi. Until that happens do not assume that you are overheating. The oi pressure should be of immediate concern. If the engine is overheating, then this could be as a consequence of no oil pressure. Check it with another gauge, (Usually of little help) Your engine could be tired and loose oil pressure as the oil thins out.(gets hot) Here it would be helpful to know a little about the history of the tractor. Did this proplem come on suddenly? Did you buy it and find out later that the oil pressure drops? This is a common prolem with these old engines. Mine drops from 30 to about 10 after a half an hour. I see a rebuild in my future, but it still is ok...
Happy Motoring
Claus

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Andy - Hammond, LA - Words of Wisdom from the archives

07-22-2001 07:04:28




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 Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 05:38:03  
Rose, it sounds like you may have more than 1 simple issue at play here. Let's attack the overheating/radiator problem first. Check out this info. Since it sounds like you need some answers quickly, here is some fabulous info on overheating from Claus and llamas...

CLAUS:
First, make sure that the coolant is circulating in the radiator and that the theremostat is not partially blocked. What is the color of the coolant? Sometimes when people try to save money when they have a leak, they will run on just water. (Bad move because rust will build up) Usually these tractors run pretty cool. Replace the fan if blades are missing. Check your radiator and clean out any debris in the fins. Mud Daubers like to make their homes in the radiator. The sound of the engine will sound a little different when going up an incline because the govenor kicks in to keep the engine at a steady RPM... If none of this helps, then go for the rodding of the radiator and perhaps a reverse flush of the block and head.
Hope this helps

Claus

LLAMAS:
Oh, dear, oh dear, oh dear. Sounds like you got a problem.

8Ns have a cooling system far larger than is really required for what they normally have to do. Even running a rotary mower. If you are overheating, you have a problem somewhere.

Excessively advanced timing will cause overheating, as will an excessively lean mixture. However, I would suspect that you would have noticed a problem in your other uses if you had those difficulties. It would be hard to start and hard to keep running at low throttle settings.

First and most obvious suspect is that your water pump has gone south. You can check for this by starting the motor cold with the radiator cap removed. You should see slow but obvious flow in the coolant until the thermostat starts to open, at which point the flow will become brisk and obvious. No flow - no pump. A new water pump is about $60, a couple hours work to install.

The radiator may be blocked or restricted with the accumulated crud of a half-century. Remove the top and bottom hoses and put a water hose in the top, flowing maybe a couple of gallons per minute. The water should come out of the bottom hose fitting as fast as it goes in the top. If it backs up and overflows, the radiator is clogged. Remove it and flush it, using a commercial flushing solution. A better solution might be to take it to a radiator shop and have it flushed and rodded.

Missing fan blades are not a good sign. There are various styles of fan, but they all have at least four blades, and they should all be there. This is a po'boy solution for a motor that would not run warm enough. A burlap sack over the radiator, or a tailored radiator screen if your wife likes to sew, is a much more elegant way.

Your thermostat may be stuck shut. It hides in the upper radiator hose. Pull it out and set it in a pot of water on the stove, with a thermometer. You should see it start to open around 120/140° F, and it should be fully open at 180-190°F. If it doesn't open, a new one is called for.

Last and least likely is a blockage in one of the water passages in the cylinder block or head. I would check everything else above before I started worrying about that.

HTH.

llater,

llamas

HTH, ANDY

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Larry

07-22-2001 05:51:28




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 Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Rose, 07-22-2001 05:38:03  
Rose First I would stop running the tractor in that condition,sounds like you have a blown head gasket! Do you have oil in the water or water in the oil? Does your oil look milky?Check these things out and report back and I' am sure some one on this great forum will give you a reply for repair!



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Rose

07-22-2001 05:56:17




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 Re: Re: Oil pressure overheating in reply to Larry, 07-22-2001 05:51:28  
No oil in the water, no water in the oil. Head gasket was replaced. Changed water pump. Not running tractor. Watching pasture GROW!! Thanks, Rose



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