Man, tell me what's next???? NEW and NON-ELECTRICAL Problems! (grin)

I am having some more (NON-ELECTRICAL) problems!

Now that is got started back up and the distributor, ignition & electrical systems have been total rebuilt and rewired. Every connector and cable is new and tested. It starts up great.

Now the problem of the stalling is still happening (happens under PTO/engine load - I can ease it off from stalling temporarily by clutching it in and taking the load off of the engine) - The engine sounds horrible - sputtering worse than before. I took the carb down and disconnected all of the linkages. It wasn't too dirty but I soaked it and cleaned out everything with carb cleaner. Everything was spotless and the gaskets were in good shape.

I just know that something is out of adjustment bigtime. I have tried the recommended course of adjustment to no avail and the idle screw (smaller of the 2 adjustment screws right?) makes absolutely no difference to the constant sputter/roughness of the engine at idle - the main adjustment screw seems to affect the unit both at idle or under load but I cannot get it to smooth out no matter how much I adjust it. I know that it is affecting the running since I can hear it get worse and eventually die out but I cannot seem to smooth it out.

Yes the fuel flow is great and the elbow carb filter is crystal clear of debris. I have a NOS Cyclone air assembly on my tractor and the oil is clean and measured up to the line on the bowl. Can someone tell me how to get rid of this rough running engine. I have no doubt that it is definately carb/air/gov related. I just don't know what else to try.

Regards,
Andy

Before the fix, anytime there was a load, the engine would sputter like it was going to die. If I pushed in the clutch, it ran fine. Also, I never could get it to idle lower that 600rpm. I suspected the Govenor at first. I realized the real problem by accident. I was trying to adjust the idle, and pushed down on the throttle shaft with my finger, causing the engine to sputter. I found that I could move the shaft. In one position, it ran fine, in another, it sputtered.

It seems that everytime the govenor kicked in, it moved the shaft.

After the fix, I can get mine to idle as low as 200 rpm. Runs great now under load. I also learned that my govenor does indeed work.

I thought about a complete carb rebuild, but decided to only fix what I knew was broke. Spent $5 on parts and all is well.

Good luck.

Hope This Helps,

1 3

2 4

going counter-clockwise

So, what are trying to say with the CAP #s being different than the plug #s?

Andy

Dist Rotates CCW firing each Spigot in sequence,
looking at the Cap #1 (marked 1), # 2 (marked 2) , # 3 (marked 4) and # 4 (marked 3)

Hope that makes sense

It surprizes a lot of people when they hear an N-Engine at idle. 400 rpm is so slow to modern ears used to hearing 700 rpm V8's and 900 rpm sewing machines.

If you have your idle speed set too high, you could be operating the carb on the main jet circuits and muckin around with the idle adjust won't affect ennything. See if'n you can't slow down your engine idle speed and then try your idle adjust needle. Again, tune for maximum rpms, and re-adjust idle speed as needed.

Engines that won't take a load can be eather bad centrifical advance springs and weight pivots in the distributor OR the governor balls are stuck.

To rod a carb. This come from the radiator shop. Used to be, when radiators got clogged up from crud, a worker would patiently push a long thin rod down each radiator tube like a pipe cleaner or rifle barrel (except not fuzzy). Now they just sell you a new radiator because it is cheaper.

Acetylene welding torch tips often get clogged from slag. They sell a set of very fine wires that the welder will clean the tip with. Some people use these fine wires to "rod" the passages in the carb to clean them out of crud like varnish and bits and pieces of stuff.

If you want to clean a jet mechanically, snake some nylon (plastic, whatver it's made of these days) fishing line of suitable size through the jet and run it back and forth. This will burnish off the gum and snot, but will not touch the brass.

JM2¢W

llater,

llamas

Thanks!
Andy

If these have been suggested, I will go back to my "screen saver" mode.

JU

Andy

what was the trouble that started you throwing parts at it? with enough information somebody on this board will tell you how to put a man on the moon so this too should pass.

Your mileage may vary

/

Where am I supposed to use this "fine wire" and what is this "rodding" - And set you float with a drill bit???? (I haven't replaced the float - but what do you mean adjusy with drill bit?

Thx,
Andy

Throw parts at it? Electrically you don't seem to have left much intact.

What was the trouble that started you working on it?

Rebuilding a one barrel carb is far from rocket science but there are techniques that need to be followed. Inside the carb you will find a number of jets and passages that all need to be cleaned to do a good job. The float is set to 1/4 inch according to F 0 4 manual. If you try to do it by eye with a ruler you will likely miss. A drill bit sits neatly on the gasket and lets you bend the tang CAREFULLY IT CAN BE BROKEN to get 1/4 float drop. Some people are lucky enough to reuse carb gaskets and parts. Maybe you are one of them but I am not. You can buy just the gaskets or a complete kit. Whichever way you go I think the concensus is clear that you need to either clean up your carb or take a chance on a rebuilt--some of which are going to be worse than what you have.

Your mileage may vary

Plugs wires are correct. By the way, I meant to point out that the "idle adjustment screw" seems to have absoultely zero affect on the engine - like it is not even working. But I could be wrong.

Regards,
Andy

I am going to heed some good advice and order the complete carb repair kit and give that a shot.

Regards,
Andy