Starting problem

Where is the screw that moves only the breaker plate? Is there a distributor different than that shown in FO-4, p. 58, Fig, FO86 and p. 60, Fig FO88? In this distributor, there are two 10-32 screws, easily seen in Fig FO86, that fasten the breaker plate firmly to the distributor case and prohibit any movement.

The clamp identified as #12 in Fig FO88 will allow the COMPLETE distributor (not just the breaker plate) to be rotated for timing adjustment. Is this what you are talking about?

Elvy

His '48 8N has a front mount distributor, which is fixed in position. Timing adjustment is provided by loosening the lockscrew (shown in figure FO83) and rotating the "timing plate" - Ford's term for what I think most would call the "breaker plate" or "points plate". Pretty much as Claus described it.

llater,

llamas

But, remember, that screw that Claus talks about adjusts spark timing, not point dwell/gap.

Elvy

My 2N starts on the 2nd or 3rd piston up after choking for the first 1 or 2. I almost cannot get off the choke fast enough. (It rarely gets below freezing here.)

You need an I&T FO-4 manual for your 8N. Klikkon the "Tractor Manuals" in the upper left corner of this page and spend the best $$ you've spent so far on your toy.

Ref: I&T FO-4, p. 58, fig. FO86, view of inside of distributor with cap off: The "adjustment screw" (the one on the right) is used to adjust point gap to 0.015" after loosening the hold-down screw. i.e. There is no external point gap adjustment.

Check the voltage at the coil with the points closed. It should be battery voltage (measure post to post - not on the cable connectors) minus 0.1-0.2 volts. Iffit ain't, clean ALL electrical connections between the battery and the coil. Those cheap, cheezy ignition switches give a lot of trouble attributed to many other things. wiggle the key in all directions, turn it off/on while measuring coil voltage. Any intermittent or variation from full battery voltage - replace the switch.

Don't choke 'er to death.

Elvy