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9N Front Rope Seals

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Rick

04-03-2000 17:49:54




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The rope seal that goes on the timing gear cover hangs out about 1/4" on both sides. Will this compress or does it need to be trimmed? I soaked it in oil for 2 hours as the manual suggests, but it will not go in any further.




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Nolan

04-04-2000 04:54:28




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 Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to Rick, 04-03-2000 17:49:54  
From memory of what Fel-Pro says about their rope seals.

You want as much material in the seal as possible. Do not stretch it or thin it.

Do not oil it prior to working the seal. Install it dry. When oiled, it frays.

There notion of leaving a little excess seal sitting proud of the mating surfaces is to cram yet a bit more seal material around the shaft. The problem is often times a bit of the seal material gets between the mating surfaces, preventing the mating surfaces from sealing, causing an oil leak.

Their recommendation is to install the seal dry, work from the outside in to get as much seal in as possible, cut flush, apply liquid sealant on the ends of the rope seals, lightly oil the surface and install.

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TimK

04-04-2000 11:35:03




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 Re: Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to Nolan, 04-04-2000 04:54:28  
I would like to see your authority from Fel-pro about dry installation of oil seals in an internal combustion engine, which dramatically differs from the IT Manual. I totally disasgree with this advice, inasmuch as I don't know how on earth anyone would ever be able to squash the dry rope adequately into the groove. And this doesn't even address the possiblity of the dry rope seal getting too hot on the initial start-up of the rebuild. Maybe Fel-Pro has a special rope material for their seals, but they are certainly not using the rope seals that N rebuilders are using with that type of advice.

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Nolan

04-04-2000 12:22:46




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 Re: Re: Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to TimK, 04-04-2000 11:35:03  
Link

I love trying to chase this article around. I swear, each time its got a new web page address.
You can also find it discussed several times over the years in the archives.

Do note that I specifically said you must lubricate the seal prior to engine operation. I believe you missed that part.

I&T manuals have not been updated for many years, and are a poor manual in any case. Use them if you must, but don't expect much of them.

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TimK

04-04-2000 14:51:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to Nolan, 04-04-2000 12:22:46  
No. I noticed that you said to lightly lube the seal. Engine rebuilds normally take some time, so it may be several days after the seal has been installed before start-up. In the meantime, that dry rope seal will suck up any oil (I trust you are not recommending grease) that you have put on it, which means in essence you are starting up with a dry seal. Again, Fel-Pro may be right if in fact they are using seals made of different material than the ones found in "N" rebuild kits. IT Manuals do get obsolete, but not on this matter I think.

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Nolan

04-05-2000 06:18:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to TimK, 04-04-2000 14:51:27  
Coke, Pepsi, coke, pepsi. Which is better? Who the heck knows.

By all means, soak the heck out of your rope seal if it seems the right thing to do to you. You're certainly not going to hurt anything by doing it. I don't think you need that much oil, and I don't think the oil disapears by wicking throughout the role seal. But you sure can burn a seal by not using enough oil.



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ZANE

04-03-2000 18:53:36




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 Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to Rick, 04-03-2000 17:49:54  
If the seals are driven home with a socket the size of the crank laid in the curve of the seal and struck with a mallett the seals do not have to be trimed.



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JHEnt

04-03-2000 18:46:14




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 Re: 9N Front Rope Seals in reply to Rick, 04-03-2000 17:49:54  
Are they completely in the groove? There is a driver tool which makes installation very easy. I think you can still get it from NH but I'm not sure. There was a catalog company from Louisiana that specialized in older tractor parts and I know they sold them just a few years ago. I think they were called Steven's Tractor Parts. Anyway Once they are installed you have to trim them. On the tool there are slots which are just at the right place. There should be just a little left on each end to compress and seal up tight but I don't know an exact measurement.

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