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Given you mention the screw on the back of the generator, I can tell you probably have a 9N or 2N. If there's more than one terminal post on your generator (or if there's another plug that fits into it) this assumption is wrong and you should ignore the rest of what I say. We'll then need to figure out just what you do have before we go on. Assuming I'm right: First off, you don't have a voltage regulator. The part under the battery is the cutout. The adjustment screw on the back of the generator adjusts the rate of charge. To polarize the generator, just jump around the cutout with a piece of wire (only needs to be done for just a short time). How all this works together: When the tractor is not running, the cutout is open. This disconnects the battery from the generator and prevents the battery from discharging through the generator. If the battery is connected to the generator without the tractor running, the generator will act as a motor and try to turn. When you start the tractor, residual magnetism in the generator causes it to develop a voltage between its output terminal and the case (which is connected to the battery through the mounting bracket). When this voltage gets high enough, the cutout relay closes. At this point, the generator is now connected to the battery and can charge it. You should see about 3 to 4 amps of charge on the ammeter if everything is working and adjusted correctly. When you turn off the engine, the generator quits generating because it's not spinning anymore. The cutout detects the reversal of current in the wiring to the battery and opens. How to troubleshoot: 1) With the tractor stopped, there should be no voltage at the generator's output post. If there is, the cutout is bad (stuck closed). You'd have noticed that the battery wouldn't hold a charge for long after you stopped the tractor. 2a) With the tractor running, you should see the same voltage at the generator's output post as you see at the battery. If the system passed the first step, this means that it's charging. It may still need the charge rate adjusted. 2b) If the voltage at the generator is higher than the battery voltage, the cutout is not closing and is likely bad (might be a wiring error so trace the wiring to make sure). Don't leave the generator run in this condition because it can develop a high voltage and damage itself. 2c) If the voltage at the generator is lower than the battery voltage (typically it'll be zero), try polarizing the generator by jumping a wire around the cutout. You only need to do this a for a very short time -- the generator should then work. If not, you get to rebuild it. Charge Rate Adjustment To adjust the charge rate, just turn the screw on the back of the generator case. There is a detailed procedure in the I&T F04 manual. Basically, you need enough current to charge up the battery without boiling it. Since the 9N / 2N doesn't have a voltage regulator, this is a compromise. Well, alright, there is a voltage regulator available: If you want, there is a company that sells a voltage regulator for this system that replaces the cutout. However, you should get the system working correctly (or at least decide that everything but the cutout is good) before you try to install this.
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