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Clutch Removal

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Old George

04-15-2000 04:16:58




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Gentelman,
I have split the engine from the transmission and while I did'nt want to remove the clutch because it was working fine, I must to mount the engine on my stand to facilitate some much needed repair. FO-4 sez "Force clutch relese levers inward and insert wooden wedges between levers and cover as shown...". Fig. also shows a pilot tool being used. My questions are:
Is the pilot tool really necessary for removal?
Do I need to find a gorilla to press in the release levers and install the wedges, or can I just remove the clutch assembly and put in the wedges before I put the clutch back on?

After screwing up once before, I am not going to try this without some advice from you folks. I just searched through about 1500 returns for "clutch" in the archives and while I learned I might as well check out all the related parts while I have it apart, I could not find anything about the "wedges". Thank you in advance for your help!

Alan Esch
45 2N 183513

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ZANE

04-15-2000 06:38:56




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 Re: Clutch Removal in reply to Old George , 04-15-2000 04:16:58  
It is easier on the bolts and holes in the flywheel to use the wedges to block the pressure plate springs but if you will just remove the bolts equally a little at the time and tighten them the same way you don't really need the wedges. I would use a line up tool if one can be found because if the disc is out of alignment with the pilot bearing you will have a heck of a time getting the shaft to go into the pilot beaing hole. A universal line up tool can be had of about 10.00 from the NAPA store etc. You can also rent one from Auto Zone or Car Port for a few dollars or less not counting deposit which you can redeeme

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tlak

04-15-2000 17:30:09




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 Re: Re: Clutch Removal in reply to ZANE, 04-15-2000 06:38:56  
Everybody has a built in alignment tool unless they have something like the sherman. I unbolted the 4 bolts that held in my transmission shaft and used that as the aligning tool then I left it mounted in the clutch and installed it that way. I had my s/g off and those big gears are meant to roll into each other. You then just reach through the S/G hole and put the bolts back in. The only precaution is the shims, I would clean and glue them to the flange. Note not for everybody-(If your transmission is pretty old without a rebuild that preload shim probably isnt needed anyway. You can take the shaft out remove the shims and mount it again and see if everything still move freely, if so hang the shims on the barn wall.) I have read stories on the forums of taking days+ to mount their eng. This was a 15min one man job not counting time to remove s/g. I dont know whats left on the N s/g but after you pull the eng. on my 601 all that was left was the 4 mounting bolts.

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dave#1

04-15-2000 05:03:08




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 Re: Clutch Removal in reply to Old George , 04-15-2000 04:16:58  
I don't have my I.T. manual handy so I'm not sure what these "Wedges" are, what I do know is, I did'nt use any "Wedges" when I split my N a few years back and I was able to get it back together with no problems, I did'nt use a clutch pilot tool either, I just lined up the clutch with the flywheel by eye then tightened the pressure plate. later,dave



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bg

04-15-2000 05:23:17




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 Re: Re: Clutch Removal in reply to dave#1, 04-15-2000 05:03:08  
We finally agree on something!



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Old George

04-15-2000 08:58:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Clutch Removal in reply to bg, 04-15-2000 05:23:17  
Thanks Zane, Dave#1, and bg! I would rather do this slow than mess it up. Ain't it great the way these old tractors bring people to agreement?:-)



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