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8N No Compression

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Salmoneye

04-23-2000 04:45:08

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I have a 47 8N (#17xxx) that had set for nearly 10 years before she was given to me 2 summers ago. I changed the battery, spark plugs and all fluids. I removed the carb, cleaned it and adjusted to the I&T FO-4 Manual. I cleaned the points, and set the gap to .015". I have spark and gas to the carb. Spun her over and nuthin. Sounded like she was spinning too fast also. Pulled the plugs and did the old thumb on the hole trick. Nothing. Valves stuck up? My question is does it make more sense to pull the head first or the manifold and the inspection plates for the valves? I think I will have to remove the tube loader to get to the manifold and the valve plates. If they are stuck up, what is the best way to free them? I'd like to see how she runs and do a metered compression test before I do a complete overhaul. Thanks in advance!

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Bryan Kelso

07-05-2000 19:19:05

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Re: 8N No Compression in reply to Salmoneye, 04-23-2000 04:45:08

First of pull the loader off, it'll make it a whole lot easier. then pull the hood off. then pull the exhaust manifold off and the oil fitler canister. then pull the head off. spin it over and see if your valves are opening and closeing. then check to see if your pistons have a lot of free play in them. if they do have play in them and the valves are working properly do a ring job and your problem is solved. if i were you i would replave the bearings and the rings anyway. it'll run so much better if you do. if your valves are stuck, clean them up with a wire brush and wd-40 or starting fluid. starting fluid works better but wd-40 is safer. you might even be able to tap the valves with a ball peen hammer. either way a rebuilt motor will always run better than an old worn out motor.

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ZANE

04-23-2000 19:55:21

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Re: 8N No Compression in reply to Salmoneye, 04-23-2000 04:45:08

Remove the manifold and the tappet covers and then pour in a lot of Marvel Mystery oil into the spark plugs holes and squirt some on top of all the valve stem bushings. Let it sit for a couple of days and then turn the engine over by hand with the fan till the lifters are down on one of the cylinders. using a big screw driver or bar of some sort pry the valves on that cylinder down by prying on the valve spring retainers on the bottom of the valves. Don't bend the valves. Pull straight down.
Turn the engine over till the next cylinder in the firing order comes up and then do the same to it. Usually you can get then to start moveing and they will eventually come down on their when they get freed up.
When all the valves will come down when the engine is turned over with the starter you will be ready to put the manifold and tappet covers back on and try to start it. It would be good if you have another tractor to pull it with till you get it started the first time to save the starter.
It may be hard to start till it has run for a few minutes because the valve seats may have some rust on their surfaces but if you can get it to run it will quickly smooth out the valve surfaces.

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Jerry

04-23-2000 07:19:12

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Re: 8N No Compression in reply to Salmoneye, 04-23-2000 04:45:08

Huy Guy
Nice tractor.If it was me I would go ahead and
rebuild the motor.

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Barry 1950 8N

04-23-2000 13:35:03

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Re: Re: 8N No Compression in reply to Jerry, 04-23-2000 07:19:12

I would confirm that your cam shaft,timing gear and distributor are all turning and intact. If your not getting any pressure with the finger over spark plug hole test,you may not have timing or compression, due to the above. Been there-Done that! -Good Luck! Barry/Vermont

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