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Almost finished, just a couple of questions.

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Ringy

01-19-2002 21:25:36

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O.K. boys, here is what I have. Front mount, 12v coil and rebuilt alternator bench tested to put out 14.7 volts. It is all wired up. Has not been run yet. With points open, I've got 8.6 volts to the top of the coil. With points closed, I have 12.5 volts to the top of the coil. From all I've read here, that seems a bit high, or is it o.k.? The ballast resistor is new and smokes only when the points are closed, why is that? Also, the starter does not turn the engine over, the solinoid clicks, but thats it. I have the ratcheting type starter drive and it may be extended, it seems I've read here that I need to run it on a wire wheel to spin it back. Is this true, would the starter not spin because the starter drive is extended or could there be some other problem. I also had coolant run out of the water pump when I filled it back up, Iguess I just have to take the water pump off again and see whats wrong. Everthing else is going well so far. I've got to say it is much more fun to put clean fresh painted parts back on the old girl than it was taking of greasey, dirty, oily ones! I'm very close to a ride down the driveway. I can't wait to post some pictures for you guys, athough it seems like a small reward for all of your help. Thank you in advance.

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Don, Luling LA

01-19-2002 22:23:14

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Re: Almost finished, just a couple of questions. in reply to Ringy, 01-19-2002 21:25:36

Ringy,
Might want to recheck that voltage. With the points open you should have full battery voltage since the circuit hasn't been completed. When the points go closed then you will incure a voltage drop due to the current flow through the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor smoking is due to a factory coating that will burn off with time, the factory usually puts an oil on the resistor coils so that it won't be ugly and rusty when you buy it. Concerning the starter, it could be the solenoid that is the problem. You can do an easy test to bypass the solenoid. The safest way for me is to disconnect the cable at the solenoid that goes to the starter,insure the tractor is out of gear, and touch the wire to the other side of the solenoid where the battery cable connects. Don't touch it on the solenoid posts it's best to touch it on the cable connector so you don't arc up the threads on the solenoid which will make it hard to remove the nut when you need to change the solenoid or battery cable. If you don't want to remove the starter wire from the solenoid I have used a battery cable to also jumper the solenoid. You can connect the cable to the positive side of the battery and then touch the other end to the cable connector at the starter or at the starter side of the solenoid. Assuming you have a good battery, battery cables, good connections, and the starter isn't the problem the starter should turn over. I am not familiar with the starter getting locked up due to the drive getting extended, someone else can help you there.
Good luck

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I hope thats a typo . . . Dell (WA)

01-19-2002 22:03:49

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Re: Almost finished, just a couple of questions. in reply to Ringy, 01-19-2002 21:25:36

Ringy..... .."With points open, I've got 8.6 volts to the top of the coil. With points closed, I have 12.5 volts to the top of the coil" ..... .I hope you typo'd here.

With a frontmount 12 volt conversion, you should read battery voltage (12.5) with the points open. and 8.6 volts with the points closed is a little low but is close to normal. And yes, resistor will smoke for a while as it burn off the manufactureing junk while the points are closed.

Your starter, hard to say, if'n ya painted everything, you might need to do some paint scrapping around starter hole and starter for a good ground. If'n ya took the solenoid off, did you re-mount it correctly? The 3-terminal tractor solenoid should have the #10 size terminal hard to get to on the engine side instead of out in the open where it is eazy.

Sounds like yer makin' progress..... ..Dell

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