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Painting N's

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9N'er

05-01-2000 02:35:04




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At another forum site I asked what has worked for those who stripped and painted (their tractors). I haven't got any response. My appraoch is this: fix the leaky valve cover seal, fix the rear brake, fix the steering, and replace the old exhaust, and try to keep the radiator (it is just sitting on small rubber 2"x2" squares to the front chasis (does that seem right?). Once I do those items, I want to paint the old girl. Once the paint is stripped to metal, do you sand the metal with emory cloth? or what?? If there is no rust, is sandblasting necessary? Do you recommend taking the tractor apart as much as possible? and do you sand between coats of primer? What do you use to fill rough spots once primer is in place? and what do you use to sand primer? I have never worked or finished metal before, so your N finishing techniques are greatly appreciated. 9N'er

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Richard(WY)

05-01-2000 16:09:41




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 Re: Painting N's in reply to 9N'er, 05-01-2000 02:35:04  
according to bg, "Why bother, you will never get the right color of paint."
I break it down into all the small parts that I can. I use some sandblasting but only after rotary wire brush, scraping etc. fails to work. Be sure and replace all seals and gaskets. I prime several coats before several finish coats. I let the paint cure for several weeks and then put it together touching up nuts and bolts and what have you. Rough spots can be filled with Bondo Plastic Metal use on bare metal or primer but bare metal is best. Use in a well ventilated area as it contains acetone. Good luck

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Dave 50 8N

05-01-2000 16:27:54




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 Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to Richard(WY), 05-01-2000 16:09:41  
Are you sure you got that bg quote right?



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truck

05-01-2000 11:36:51




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 Re: Painting N's in reply to 9N'er, 05-01-2000 02:35:04  
You could paint it any way from a quick and dirty to restoration quality, and I bet you could find as many answers to this as there are painters out there. I successfully painted my D4 by blowing it off with the spray gun before I shot on Cat yellow primer, and that was it, no masking,no sanding, maybe a swipe with the hand on the really flaky paint. But That's an auction quality job. Best to paint the chassis, wheels, and sheet metal separately. Pressure wash first, use wire wheels and scuff pads on the shiny painted areas of the castings, prime, and paint. You could go all the way and seal it up real well and blast it and paint , with epoxy or polyurethane paint too.
Sheet metal is best handled by a bodyman. Give the hood grille, and side panels to a body expert and have it done. Or get a book on automotive painting and study and practice. I'm not saying you can't do it, but don't expect amazing results the first time out. Don't put a lot of paint on that radiator. Use radiator paint if you can get it, or just thin out black enamel and shooot just enough to darken it up. Check that your rims are solid, straight, and have the rubber you want to end up with on them before you paint.
By the way, if you were the guy that asked about powdercoating, it is an expensive yet durable proces involving completely sandblasting the parts, coating with a powder in a special setup, and then baking the powder into a glossy coating. It is a street rodding technique, but hardly practical for an everyday tractor. All the work is done by the powdercoating place and they aren't cheap!

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9N'er

05-01-2000 14:12:57




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 Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to truck, 05-01-2000 11:36:51  
Thanks for these insights. Powdercoating is way beyond my reach...and not practical. ALthough if I had more money and time to do anything I wanted, I would poweder coat. I have more questions, but my wife is on my case to get off the computer. 9N'er



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buck

05-01-2000 12:05:16




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 Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to truck, 05-01-2000 11:36:51  

Truck
Why is it that I get the feeling that with a little detail work you can do one heck of a paint job? Is this your line of work?



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truck

05-01-2000 18:07:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to buck, 05-01-2000 12:05:16  
Well, I did used to teach auto body ..but don't tell anyone or I'll be inundated with rusty cars again. I prefer rusty tractors. They at least don't usually get totaled by teenagers a week after the paint job..;o)



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AL@NC

05-01-2000 06:43:32




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 Re: Painting N's in reply to 9N'er, 05-01-2000 02:35:04  
A very good paint remover is oven off. Get the cheapest brand you can find. Spray it on, let it set over night and hose it off. It doesn't dry up like most paint removers do and works with grease. Treat your bare metal with a rust converter and look into a non-sanding primer for the chassis. Do check with your auto paint supplier as Gaspump said.



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norm(wy)---Rust Converter????

05-01-2000 10:23:03




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 Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to AL@NC, 05-01-2000 06:43:32  
AL
Now you have done it--You've piqued my curiosity---
What is a rust converter? I've heard of rust inhibitors in paint before but have never heard of a rust converter. Would appreciate the info cuz my paint job is getting closer and closer----TIA



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Steve (CO)

05-01-2000 12:54:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to norm(wy)---Rust Converter????, 05-01-2000 10:23:03  
Check with your local auto parts store or Walmart. Eastwood (the auto finish supply firm,not the actor) also carries a rust converter. The converter comes in spray form also and turns the rust into a stable substance that can be sanded or painted as is.



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george s

05-01-2000 11:34:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Painting N's in reply to norm(wy)---Rust Converter????, 05-01-2000 10:23:03  
I've used rust converters, it's a white milky stuff that cleans up with water, and turns the rust area into something that's not rust, the rust area turns a purply black.However, you need some rust for the conversion to work,and the converted rust is very hard and doesn't sand well(by hand)thus the converted surface remains rough and shows through the paint, unless you do a lot of filling.I find that for things that don't need a smooth finish, it works good

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Gaspump

05-01-2000 06:00:12




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 Re: Painting N's in reply to 9N'er, 05-01-2000 02:35:04  
The radiator sits on two small square pads as you mentioned and is secured by two carriage head bolts from the slots in the radiator frame that point downward.

I use a 4" angle grinder with cup shaped wire brushes to remove old paint and rust if I do not have access to a sandblaster. You can clean a lot of cast and sheetmetal with one. Also use a sander, drill with a wire brush or hand tools, whatever you have access to.

The paint questions can best be answered by your automotive paint store or if you use hardware store paint get an information sheet an/or follow directions on the can. Many paints and processes, it's your choice.

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