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Electronic igniton, good or bad?

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RanLan

09-25-1998 18:53:33




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I just clicked on an ad for electronic ignition conversion kits for old fords, sounds good to
me. Does anyone have any idea, good or bad?




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Dennis

09-26-1998 18:11:52




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 Re: electronic igniton, good or bad? in reply to RanLan, 09-25-1998 18:53:33  
I have an Oliver where the points have always been a source of a continuous headache. Just recently, I installed an electronic module in place of the points. I also replaced the plugs, coil, and wires. The first time I cranked it, the engine started. Gone are the days of having to file the points every time I want to start it.

I also changed it to 12V neg ground from 6V pos ground. I am in the process of installing an alternator in place of the old generator.

I don't regret changing it over to an electronic system. The one I got starts quick and thats the only thing I really care about. It also runs better, but I think the quick starts are more impressive.

If you are interested, I got my kit at:
Link
I am sure that they have Fords in there too.
The nice thing is that the module can be yanked and the points put back in if you don't like it, but I think you will.

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cargocult

09-26-1998 18:06:46




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 Re: electronic igniton, good or bad? in reply to RanLan, 09-25-1998 18:53:33  

Please post web-address-ski for electronic-ignition conversion for Ford N-types..YT has everything but Ford N's...where is it????



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Vince

09-26-1998 09:49:58




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 Re: electronic igniton, good or bad? in reply to RanLan, 09-25-1998 18:53:33  
Just installed electronic ignition Wed. 9/23/98. So far more than satisfied. Installed ignition, hi performance coil, new plug/coil wires. Performance generally better throughout RPM range..really great at higher RPM. Needed power to spin RD 7200... got it. I have also flushed an filled radiator, overinflated air filled tires all around, and use 10w-30 API certified oil in rebuilt engine and Pennzoil Hydra-tranz (Ford Spec 134) in diff. Timing adjustment may be necessary but not sure yet. VINCE

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ZANE

05-26-2000 08:46:51




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 Re: Vacuum Testing an 8N? in reply to Don 8N143633, 05-26-2000 03:11:14  
I think you would have a better chance of finding something usefull in the way of knowledge about the condition of the engine on the N by trying a crystal ball.



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Steven Bastardi

05-26-2000 10:41:30




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 Re: Re: Restoration Pictures in reply to JK_TN, 05-26-2000 07:28:29  
It was quite clean when I got it. I bought it as a work tractor but got carried away. The only problem now is that I don't have a work tractor. Oh well maby I'll need to get another one..... .

Steve



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T.S.Dye

05-26-2000 05:14:14




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 Re: Re: ? Install a swinging drawbar on 9N???? in reply to llamas, 05-26-2000 04:04:01  
You might consider what is called a V hitch.This devise bolted to the cross drawbar and clamped onto each lift arm providing a very stable hitch . Hitch elevation is maintained by using stablizer bars.



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Vince

09-27-1998 09:47:27




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 Re: Re: Re: electronic igniton, good or bad? in reply to JK MN , 09-26-1998 12:24:17  
Installed ignition on 8N396018 side mount distributor. Personally have had nothing but good luck with ignition conversions to solid state ie. 1973 Ford F250 360cid..1974 Corvette 350cid...both done with Mallory parts. Both still going strong after many years with occasional cap & rotor. I'm not a professional mechanic or engineer but have lived on farm for most of life and do a lot by seat of the pants and by ear. The N RUNS BETTER.

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Remie J. Smith

05-26-2000 15:30:46




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 Help..Oil Pump Aluminum Dirve Gear Problem on 9N in reply to JK MN , 09-26-1998 12:24:17  



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Russ in SoCal

05-25-2000 23:23:40




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 Re: 9N quit in reply to Bart in WA, 05-25-2000 07:54:13  
There could be more than one problem at work here. Engine quit/won't turn over.

If you pull the "cork" on the bottom of the carburetor, do you have a good sustained fuel flow? I believe there is a fuel screen at the tank outlet and another at the carb inlet. I had a run-ten-minutes-quit-for-fifteen situation. Once the float chamber emptied, there was only a small trickle. In this case, it was a fuel filter.

On the won't crank, it's time to chase electrons, starting with the battery connections and cables. Anything less than super-clean will sink your boat, even though a VOM will show good voltage. Then check the key switch (this won't keep it from cranking, but could be the cause of it dying). Check voltage to and through start switch and solenoid. You could try jumping the start system to the starter side of the solenoid. (MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NUETRAL!!!)

'Nuff outta me, but let us know what you find.

Russ
8N58182*

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