Rear blade ford 2N

Danny

Your mileage may vary

Dan

If you spin the tires they will chew up an asphalt or concrete drive.

Also if you lock one of the brakes and spin the tractor you will gouge the drive-way.

One thing I would suggest is to install a rear work light if you don't have one...makes plowing a lot safer and easier in the evening when it gets dark at 5:00.

Sal

I have a 7' blade that I use. Even with the rear wheels set wider I can still clear a path the width of the wheels. The chains question really depends on the type and amount of snow that you get. Light occasional fluffy snows and you might be OK without. Big heavy wet snows (like here in Central Iowa) and I couldn't get back up the driveway without the chains. However, with the chains and loaded tires I can plow both uphill and downhill.

A couple of years ago we had some real heavy snows. As I was pulling the snow along the edge of the road my front wheel hooked a rut and yanked me into the ditch. The snow was drifted about 4' high and in order to get out I had to gun it and make a large loop through the front yard with an average of 2' or so of snow. With the chains there was never any hesistation that I would be able to drive out of it. Without the chains I suspect that I would have pulled it out with something else.

The neighbors all saw the tracks and accused me of playing when I should have been working!

Here is some advice.

#1, Get a Zane Thang.
It is an aftermarket device manufactured by Zane Sherman (a frequent contributor) that gives position control to the three point hitch. Without it, the 9N and 2N must rely on the ground to set the level of the blade. That can be a problem with wet heavy snow. The position control allows you to set the blade an inch or more above the ground, which adds weight to the rear tires, and eliminates the friction of the blade against the ground. It seems strange, but my tractor won't move 4" of snow with the blade all the way down, but it will move more than 12" with the blade slightly off the ground.

#2, Push or Pull.
You will need to do both. The best advice is experience. I have a 6' blade, that I keep slightly angled to the right. I live next door to where I work and have to do the parking lot too. For my driveway, I drop the blade and drive down and up, pushing the snow to the side. For the parking area, I take several foreward passes, then push the accumulated snow to a stockpiling area.

#3, Have a plan.
Depending on your winter conditions, that snow will start to gather. Plann where the stockpiles will be and set aside areas you defibitely don't want blocked, such as intersections where visibility is important.

#4, Play Mechanic. In colder temperatures, the older tractors might need a little care. Some guys get dipstick or magnetic heaters for the oil pan to help them get started. Carburetors have been known to ice up and condensation can also play havoc with the front mount distributor (especially when packed with snow) which takes you out of the snow plowing game. ALso, check that hydr. fluid for water now. If it is a milky caramel color, it is probably going to freeze up, and usually in a position you don't want.

#5, SMile.
Plowing snow with the N is a great deal of fun (especially the first time you fishtail). But make the fun last. By the time Febuary rolls around it starts to loose it's charm. Pace yourself, and dress warmly.