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Brakes

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Allen Carroll

12-03-2002 09:32:16




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I purchased a ranch a few months ago that came with a old Ford tractor. From what I've figured out (by the parts I've used) it seems to be a early model 8N. But all the pictures I see don't seem to match. It has a Intake stackabout 24" on the right side of the hood. It uses oil as the filtration method. I was able to get it running after 2 months of soaking the rings with deisel fuel. My problem now is getting the brake drums off. The left side has something inside that obvoiusly needs repaired. I've removed the wheels, backed the square adjusters all the way off. The wheel lugs studs are part of the drum and from what I can see there is a flange that looks like the axle shaft that seems to be holding it on. I've tried pounding (scary) off and does not move at all! Any suggestions? I've done more brake jobs on Cars and motorcycles than I can count. So I'm not completely mechnicaly ignorant.

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Dell (WA)

12-03-2002 11:43:33




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 Re: Brakes in reply to Allen Carroll, 12-03-2002 09:32:16  
Allen..... .....congrats on your new life adventure.
Old Ford N-Tractors all look alike from the distance, but up close and personal, they're very different. Your discription suggests a 9N/2N with dealer installed thur the hood air vent stack and the oilbath airfilter is standard. The 17" rearbrakes and square adjustor is NOT 8N with 9" brakes and internal star-adjustor.

And yes, you must remove the brake drum and axle as a complete assembly from the rear axle trumpet.

Suggest you seriously consider getting an I&T FO-4 manual. Readily available from sponsors of this great N-Board, most tractor parts emporiums, www.n-news.com has a great archive of 3-point implements manual too. Wal-Mart books is reputed to have it. My local (byte my tongue) JohnDeere has 'em for sale. Even Ford/New Holland sells 'em. $29 cheap. Gettcha one. ..... ..... respectfully, Dell

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probably 9n==bj/8n/mt

12-03-2002 11:12:40




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 Re: Brakes in reply to Allen Carroll, 12-03-2002 09:32:16  
From what you describe, e.g. the square adjustor, it is most likely an 9/2n. Also, if you have done automotive drum brakes the 8n style with the adjustment star wheel reached through a slot shouldn't be a puzzle.

If it is a 9n you need to remove the stud nuts holding the axle bearing retainer to the housing then the axle and brakes come out as a unit.

HTH since Your mileage may vary



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iceman

12-03-2002 11:00:08




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 Re: Brakes in reply to Allen Carroll, 12-03-2002 09:32:16  
If you are lookin at brake drums with lug studs stickin out, you do have an 8n. Those drums are held on with slotted screws between the studs. Some have 4 screws, some have 2



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Rusty 2N

12-03-2002 09:51:38




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 Re: Brakes in reply to Allen Carroll, 12-03-2002 09:32:16  
sounds more like a 9/2N brake set up. Remove the 6 boltd on that flange at the end of the axel trumpet & pull the drum & axel as a unit. Carefull it's heavy & not very well balanced. Good luck.



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Allen Carroll

12-03-2002 12:26:29




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 Re: Re: Brakes in reply to Rusty 2N , 12-03-2002 09:51:38  
I was afraid that was the case. If I remove these bolts and slide off the drum housing what fluids are going to need to be replaced.
Axle
Hydro

Also the brake and clutch acuation rod. Does it just slide out of the drum housing or am I going to need to disconnect the brake and clutch levers?

Once the assembly is off what keeps the drum and backing plate together?

By the way THANK YOU for the response, EXTREMELY helpful!

A.C.

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Dell (WA)

12-03-2002 13:12:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Brakes in reply to Allen Carroll, 12-03-2002 12:26:29  
Hello again Allen..... ....this is the new, kinder, gentler, user friendly Dell.

To answer your question, I quote from my well worn I&T FO-4 manual:

For 9N brake service: Jack-up rear end of tractor and remove the rear wheels (caution: tire could be heavy) remove fender support brace. Remove the stud nuts attaching the axle bearing retainer to the axle housing (save the shims) Pull the axle shaft and brake as an assembly out of the axle housing. (no, the 5 gals of hydro/tranny oil should NOT leak out the axle trumpet mouth)

Turn the brake adjuster eccentric counterclockwize to back the brake shoes away from brake drum. Lift the brake backing plate off the bearing retainer studs. Remover brake shoe retracting springs. Remove brake shoes.

The brake lining is riveted to the brake shoe, and new lining is availabe for installation on a used brake shoe. New 17" brake shoes and lining are also available as an assembled unit.

Reinstall brakeshoes in reverse order of removal. Be sure that the upper brake shoe fits squarely in slot of adjuster link. Note that upper brake shoe return spring is color coded green and lower spring is color coded red. Finish the job by adjusting the brakes.

Oh by the way, you might want to consider re-newing your axle seals, as described in the I&T FO-4 manual. And consider using a product called "Sure-Seal" for your axle shaft..... .....respectfully, Dell

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John.COLO

12-03-2002 16:15:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Brakes in reply to Dell (WA), 12-03-2002 13:12:32  
If you decide to replace the seals, it’s too big a job for a backyard guy without a press. Get shop help if you’re going to do the seals. (I rarely find bad seals on 9N/2N). Do check the shim pack for cracked or broken shims and replace any that aren’t good. When you re-assemble, coat the end of the housing, the brake backing plate, and each shim with either a thin wipe of silicone or paint it with gasket sealant. This has to be done to prevent leakage of oil onto your brakes.

9N/2N shoes are pricey new. I'd have the old ones relined.

If you find broken parts inside, mail me. I have some salvage tractors.

tOTG

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