Only turns over 3 seconds, even with 125 Amp boost

1. Is there a home method to load test a battery with a voltmeter?

2. How about if the battery is dead totally, and I try to measure resistance between the poles? Would it be different (higher I suppose) on a good battery than a bad one?

3. What else could be wrong which would explain this. I checked my points and plugs. The points are not welded together, and I don't see any indication of hydrostatic lock.

I had not used my tractor for several months, but need it now for snow removal.

If I have to buy a battery, I am open to brand recommendations. The one I now have is a New Holland, and it is 4 or 5 years old.

1. (most likely) Your battery probably is bad. You don't need a voltmeter to tell you, the starter is your indicator. Even the "125 A" booster normally has a hard time actually delivering that current through the poor connection of the clamps in real-life.

2. (less likely) You MIGHT have shorted windings in the starter which will very dramatically increase the starting current. In a marginal system, you get away with it during warm weather. During cold weather, everything is working against you. (less voltage, lower fuel vaporization, more friction, and less torque if it is shorted).

You cannot necessarily discern which is which by one measurement as a battery voltage test will only tell you that it decreses during cranking. This might be because the battery resistance is too high, or the starting circuit too low. Check all of the cells with a hydrometer as Dell suggested. Ideally at 80 deg. and a few hours after you believe it is fully charged. SG should be about 1.260 and not vary more than maybe .02

fwiw
kevin

And NO, you can't measure internal battery resistance with a volt/ohm meter. Best you can do is use a specific gravity device called a hydrometer, looks like a big turkey baster with a floating thermometer inside.

Little secret, real tractor batterys are built stouter inside than common automobile batterys. You're lucky to get 3 yrs bouncing across the field. I'd recommend you find a real tractor battery. Ford/New Holland or (byte my tongue) John Deere.

When my dual battery'd 1995 Dodge Cummings Diesel pick-up with no maintenance Chrysler batterys needed replacement because the acidwater had disappeared, I opted for 12 volt John Deere tractor batterys. 1/2 price of new Dodge stealer batterys, 2/3 the price of Die-Hards. 1/3 the price of Optima gel-cells. So far (3 yrs) I'm good..... ...Dell