New 8N owner, many questions

Also, please forgive this many questions all in one message.

- I need lights. Two of them. I know where to get them, but I was wondering if there were any suggestions on purchasing and installing them. Mine have been removed (perhaps in the 12v conversion). Is there anything special I need to know about wiring them up? I'd also like to add rear lights on the fenders.

- On the bottom of my 3pt, I seem to remember there needs to be at least one "sway bar". Is this a generic part or do I need to order a specific one?

- The guy who sold me the tractor told me it had "the small PTO". I wasn't aware until he told me this that there were more that two types of PTO. My farmer relative looked at it and called it a "540", which I assumed referred to the 540 RPM, not the physical size of the shaft. Any ideas here? Did I just get a smaller shaft? Someone also told me that an ORC would make this irrelevant. I know I want an ORC, but will I need a special one?

- I seem to be fighting a fast idle. I've back out the adjustment screw for the idle as much as I feel comfortable with. After about 20 mins of use, the idle usually ramps back up. I've also put a slight bend in the bar that attaches to the idle adjustment, but fast idle is still a problem. Ideas?

- I have a bunch of marine grease left over from a boat and some watercraft I used to own. I really have no use for it. Can I grease the zerks on my tractor with this stuff to use it up? I've tried to give it away a couple of times -- no luck.

To switch grease is fine, but don't keep mixing greases. Once you switch to a grease you need to purge the old grease out. This is done by regreasing often. If your intentions were to use up the marine grease, then go to something else don't do it. Pick what you are going to settle in on and stay with it. I recommend a lithium base grease....it is the most common general purpose grease. Note: to mix brands is not the problem. To mix different types of greases is usually a problem.

Fessman

2) Stabilizer bars are needed for some implements. Sometimes 1 is enough, sometimes 2 are better. They are nothing special - any category 1 stabilizer bar should fit. Spend a couple dollars more for the screw-adjustable style and you'll be able to adjust for minor variations.

3) The original PTO shaft was one-and-one-eighth inches in diameter, with six equi-distant splines. Some time in the 60s, the ASEA standard PTO shaft for tractors in this size class was altered to one-and-three-eighths inches in diameter, with six equi-distant splines. Modern implements in this size class will have the modern-size female PTO coupler.

You can buy an adapter sleeve for a couple of bucks which increases the old shaft to the new size. These do not last well, being so thin. If you plan to use an ORC (and DellWA will tell you all the reasons why you should on any implement which has high rotational momentum) then you can buy an ORC which has the "old" input and the "new" output and solve your problems that way. The permanent fix is to buy an upgraded PTO shaft assembly in the new size - the assembly is about $140, installs in about 30 minutes.

You are right, this PTO is geared 540 rpm at-or-near full governed motor speed. 1000 rpm PTO is a 50's development, intended primarily for running balers and such.

4) Governor, governor, governor. This thing has cruise control. Set the motor speed and the governor will maintain it. Sounds like you have a worn, damaged or non-functioning governor.

5) Sure. If you grease on a regular schedule, as you should, almost any grease will do. Marine lube (as used in lower units, control cables, outboard pivots and so forth)? It's probably not the ideal, but better to use a less-than-ideal grease often than the right grease every three years.

HTH

llater,

llamas

later(belch) dave

How does one diagnose a bad governor (or did I just do that this weekend?)

(if this looks like a second reply, it's because I didn't see my first reply show up)

You're looking for a broken spring, links which are worn or sloppy on their pivots, flat spots on the flyballs, a groove worn in either the flat or conical plate, slack in the ball-bearing, and so forth. There is also a setting for the throw of the moving plate, which is covered in the shop manual, and this must be correct for the governor to work right.

A complete rebuilt governor is about $250, a complete rebuild kit is about $80. You can do the rebuild if the pivot bearing on the housing is not worn through and you have the necessary facilities for pushing the shaft assembly apart and back together.

HTH

llater,

llamas

Kevin

llater,

llamas