Tired 9n

ps this is a 1941 version based on serial #
it also has one of those tricky front end loaders on it (it works well)lol
thank you rick

Their is a tool that you can use to drive the sleeves out of the bore with.It is best to have the crankshaft removed to insure that you don't damage the journals by striking them.you could have a maching shop fabricate one by turning a piece of round stock just a little larger than the bore of the cylinders.Firts turn a piece of stock of about 3/4" to about .020" smaller than the bore, then turn half of the blank to about .020" smaller than the bore of the sleeves.Cut about 3/4" from each side of the turned driver so that it will go into the bottom of the sleeve and with a 10 or 12 lb hammer and a large drift against the tool drive them out the top of the cylinder.

If you are a pretty good welder their is an easier way to get the old sleeves out. Lay the block on it's side and with a 6011 1/8" rod run a cold bead from the bottom of each sleeve to the top.Do this about 3 times in each sleeve and allow them to cool to the touch.You can then either pull them out with your hand or catch the bottom edge with a large screwdriver and tap them out. Be carefull not to weld through the old sleeve. After you get the old sleeves out lightly hone or sand the bore where the heat from the welding may have cooked the carbon to the bore slightly.Don't hone much. The new sleeves must have a .005 interference fit.

Don't try to drive the new sleeves in with the tool that you fabricated to pull them out with as that tool will split the sleeves when you try to drive them back in.

You can take a piece of flat plate of at least 1/2" thick and that will completely cover the top of the new sleeve plus about 1" or so and drive the new sleeves down till they are even with the deck of the block.Some of these N guys will tell you to freeze the sleeves etc but it is not necessary.I have done literaly hundreds and I quit that freezing bit years ago. Can't tell the difference.

• ZANE THANG