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9n'ER..... ..I'm comming in a little late on your problem but the next important step is to verify that you have about 3.5 volts at the front mount ignition coil with the points closed. With the points open you'll get battery volts. How to tell if your points are open/closed. With a cheep $10 voltmeter. Just put the tractor in gear, turn ignition switch on an roll/push those big back tires until you get the readin you're looking for. Don't bother clicking over the starter, its only stops where it wants to and only by accident will it stop were you want it to, open or closed. Now then, if all you get is battery volts, that means your points never close, adjust them per the FO-4 manual procedure. If all you get is about 3.5 volts that means that your points never open, adjust them. What makes the sparkies is when the points open, the magnetic field from the primary rappidly collaspes and induces/transforms the 3.5 volts to 15,000 volts needed to jump the sparkplug gap. Understand, if you have the original 6 volt frontmount ignition coil, it really is designed to operate on 3.5 volts (plus or minus some tolorances) So it doesn't matter what your tractor battery really is, 3 volt, 5 volt, 6 volt, 8 volt 12 volt, 24 volts, if you got more than about 4 volts at the coil with the points closed, you're going to overheat the coil, and melt the insulation and shortout the transformer turns and never get enuff sparkies. This is why all frontmount ignition systems have a "ballast" resistor, to cut down the battery volts to 3.5. If your original 12 volt conversion was done correctly, you should find 2 ballast resistors in series like flashlight batterys. One to cut the 12 volts down to 6 volts and the original ballast resistor to cut the new 6 volts down to 3.5 volts. How ever, could combine the 2 ballast resistors into 1 "bigger value" resistor to cut the battery voltage down to 3.5 volts. Now here's the tricky part to understand, most cheep ohmmeters really don't read low ohms (6 volt ballast resistor is 0.7 ohms) with very good accuracy but the cheep voltmeter part reads the volts dropped by the resistors with good enuff accuracy. So use the voltmeter part, and you're looking for 3.5 volts at the coil connector with the points close. Hope this gets you "pointed" the right direction..... .Dell
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