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Plowing Questions

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Alan

07-06-2000 10:52:44




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I have a 51 8N and been using a 14 inch 1 bottom plow with pretty good success , except for 1 situation.My field has not been turned over in probably 20 years ago or so and I have heavy sod with alot of woody second growth (alders and willows I think ).I have brush hogged these down , but they do have an extensive root network , and when I plow using draft control mode , the plow has a tendency to rise (as it should , I guess) when it hits the roots which leaves me with a srtip of unplowed ground in the middle of a plowed section. Sometimes when it encounters the roots the plow will stay deep and cut a furrow but the sausage will fall back into the furrow , leaving me to stop the tractor get off and roll the sausage over where it should be (what a pain !!!). My question is, is there something I could do to help me alleviate theses 2 very annoying situations....Plow in position control mode where the roots are???...Disc before I plow???? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....Thanks...Alan

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Dave in Mo

07-07-2000 21:16:01




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
Al, quit playin' around and get a subsoiler. It's basically cheap and it'll tear out roots 'bout as thick as your forearm with position control. Besides it'll give you more excuses for spending more time on the tractor.



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halbert09

07-06-2000 19:52:33




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
Try it in position control the whole time; it'll work ok if the field is relatively level, just watch it when you get to the field ends, you might want to raise it a little as the front wheels come out and then lower it as the rear wheels come out of the furrow.



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ZANE

07-06-2000 15:05:18




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
You need some plow shares (points) with a stinger on the leading edge of the shares. A part of the share that is ahead of the rest of the share so it will have to get in the ground. If you can't find shares with a stinger point then you can have a 3" piece of a grader blade welded to the share on the leading edge point of the shart so it will take the ground. Turn the piece of grader blade with the curve pointing down in the front of the share and about half of it welded to the top of the share. I guarnetee if you do it the plow will take the ground and stay in the ground. It will work even with a worn out set of shares on the plow. Weld one on each point. The only thing bad about this fix for a flat bottom plow is that it will allow you to keep on plowing after the share is worn so bad the under side of the plow will begin to drag the ground and if you use it too long it will actually wear away the frog of the plow and the bolt holes that hold the shares to the frog so that you cannot put new ones back on when they finnaly fall off.

To prevent the plow from trying to turn the tractor you need to adjust the draw bar.Think of the plow as the rudder on a boat.If you want the boat to turn left you turn the ruddre left.The same is true of the plow.The drawbar has an offset on the right side with the offset turned down.To turn the plow as a rudder to the left to make the tractor stop turning right when the plow is engauged,loosed the bolt that secure the drawbar to the plow.Turn the drawbar counterclockwise looking at the right end(offset).in order to make the tail of the plow turn to the left.It only takes little to turn the plow tail a lot but do it so that the tail of the plow is moved about 6" to the left.Retighted the bolts that secure the drawbar to the plow.
Put the little lever that is under the seat in the down (draft control position) Move the lift lever till the plow drops to the ground.Advance the tractor and gradually move the lever more down till the plow is at the depth you wish to plow and then set the lever at this point with the stop to make it stay there.
A flat bottom plow should be set so that when the plow opens the furrow the bottom of the furrow will be flat.Hence"flat bottom plow"!!If the plow will not go in the ground with the plow set flat,get new plow points.
When using a 14" flat bottom plow the distance from the inside edge of the right rear wheel should be 14" from the most forward point of the first plow.Or 14" from the landside of the first plow to the inside of the RR tire.
The tires of the tractor should have water in them or either wheel weights.

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Gerb

07-06-2000 15:44:58




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 Re: Re: Plowing Questions in reply to ZANE, 07-06-2000 15:05:18  
I just plowed a small field that had not been turned over for a long time. Heavy sod and fairly tough going with a 9N, 2 bottom, 14" plow.

Found I had to have the plow points in nearly new condition with the coulters set just right and the rest of the plow set up to specs similar to what Zane noted.

With the 9N, I had to keep adjusting the depth control and had only a few problems turning good furrows.

The next time thru will be better too.
Gerb

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Dale O'9n

07-06-2000 13:06:05




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
I had the same problem on the land I bought last year. I had to use the grader box 1st. only use half the teeth all the way down. Play with the angle a little and this should break it up. When you go back with the plow you won't have so much resistance. Also, if the veg. is green its going to be hard, you might be better of waiting till it dies back then bush and then plow. Its always hard to turn over green stuff. Unless you've a monster tractor.

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drawbar

07-06-2000 15:00:52




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 Re: Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Dale O'9n, 07-06-2000 13:06:05  
just a related footnote, nothing to do directly with your situation, but may be interesting.

I remember that back in about '73 I was attending a Polaris Snowmobile Service Meeting when my friend Leland Dalquist, then Polaris Service Manager, took me out to several sections of land where Mr Hetten (founder of Polaris) was "breaking new ground". He was talking to his tractor operators via 2way radio, they were using 4WD Stegers (i think) with duals all around (8 wheels). One had a front dozer blade if i remember correctly. They were pulling LARGE single bottom plows, they called them "breaking plows", about 4' tall moldboards i recall. Anyway, it was something to see those tractors plow over the willow trees, brush,and other small trees. This was 4 mile south of the Canada border in Minnesota. This land had been worked and ditched by the CCC in the 30's but virgin since then; so thick with trees and brush as you can imagine, kind of loaming soil. Later I think they came back and bulldozed the tangled mess of big tree parts into piles and i think burned them. Those were big tractors, I doubt if they used draft control as then pulled directly off their large drawbars. Does anyone remember that also? R.Williams

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Darryl

07-06-2000 12:20:54




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
Hi Alan. I believe the plow depth should vary with soil changes as you plow, ie. depth should decrease in tougher soils and deepen in friable soil. Varying the depth is how the draft control maintains a constant draft, or pulling effort on the part of the tractor. When you encounter the roots, the draft senses an increase in draft load and raises the plow as it is designed to do in order to maintain the same pulling load. I think your draft control is working as it should. Now as to what to do when encountering those roots... Maybe it would be easiest to stop and switch to position control ( I think you'd have to fiddle around to get the same depth ) when you get to the 'rooty' area and go back to draft control when you're in the clear ( again having to mess with your settings ). Seems like a major pain, but if the field will be tilled on a continuing basis it should just be a one-time thing. Hope it goes well for you.

Darryl

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tlak

07-06-2000 11:41:19




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 Re: Plowing Questions in reply to Alan, 07-06-2000 10:52:44  
The plow should keep an even depth of the furrow and not raise or lower because it hits something.
Some plows have a trailing wheel that helps keep the dirt turned over.
Total newbie to plowing, maybe an old timer to plowing could set us both strait.



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Gerb

07-06-2000 15:36:34




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 Re: Re: Plowing Questions in reply to tlak, 07-06-2000 11:41:19  
The trailing wheel on a plow is there to resist side movement of the plow. It should carry no real load and is not relied on to turn the dirt over or to maintain plow depth.
Gerb



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