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9N 31649 Engine test results...

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9N'er

07-11-2000 11:38:40




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Ok, I hate admit it, but want to share it nonetheless. I had a mechanic come over today for an hour. We hooked up his digital voltmeter. At line -in side of the resistor, turned ignition on and had a reading of 12.9V. On the other side of the resistor we got the same reading. We then applied the lead on the coil and fired up the engine. We were getting readings from 3.85 to 4.2 and then back up to 10, 9, 12, 10...etc...rapidly bouncing around from 3.85 to 10-12. I am assuming that when the points are closed the reading drops, and when the points are open, the reading jumps up toward 12v. Is this correct? Anyways the mechanic felt confident that the resistor was doing it's job. I hope this is good news...and the right deduction (?). Compression test: all cylnders had near identical readings, but equally important, the readings all jumped and moved upward at the same rates. Compression readings were about 80. Oil pressure: running cold...consistent 30 pound readings. When the engine is warm 20+. All lifter and valves appear to be working just fine. No blue smoke or carbon from exhaust. Idling sounds very good...with a minor minor lifter ticking. Ammeter is at a consistent zero to a slight movement on the positive side. And the best thing: she fired right up this morning with one turn of the key. It was great. Proud of that. If anything seems odd or piques some concern from this status report can you let me know? It was money well spent to have someone there and go through it with me, explain things by doing and showing...but more importantly, seeing that I didn't do too bad with this for my first go around..thanks to your help. For those with igntion problems and looking for a resistor...the Ford A8NN 12250-B resistor that I got from the tractor mechanic fit on the left side of 9N dash. At least on my dash, there are two flat head metal screws about .75" to 1" apart. The resistor block was drilled exacty for those holes and screws...it was meant to fit there I guess. Anyways, it seems to work fine and was meant for that location. Just an FYI if you're looking for a rsistor that easily mounts to the back side of the dash...out of sight. 9N'er p.s. it seems that the problem was boiling down to a bad coil.

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Rick in Kansas

07-11-2000 15:43:00




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 Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to 9N'er, 07-11-2000 11:38:40  
Our deepest sympathy on your loss from the Bailey's ( Rick and Barb ). Good job on the rebuild. Now the next challenge of marital faith; How are you fixed for implements for the N? That's a whole new world to explore. There are a lot of toys out there.

Best Regards!!!!! !!!



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9N'er

07-11-2000 16:57:12




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 Re: Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to Rick in Kansas, 07-11-2000 15:43:00  
Marital faith...I think the implements will definitely challenge that! So far we have a 5' brush-hog, hydro scoop, 6 foot front blade, a 7 foot snow blade, front forks, and working on a set of half tracks. Problem is; two tractors, one checkbook! So far, so good on the marriage...and get this: this morning, on the way to work Karen says: i can see collecting tractors as your new hobby..." I just about fell off the car seat! then I said yeah (being low key of course) I could see aquiring an aluminum 9N before a Jubilee/NAA...but an 8n would be good too. She's threatening to post a message to the N-Board from the wife of 9N'er. hmmm...

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Dell (WA)

07-11-2000 12:20:17




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 Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to 9N'er, 07-11-2000 11:38:40  
9N'er..... .just what I and others been telling you. About 3.5 volts at the OEM 6 volt coil with points closed, and battery voltage (12 volts) with the points open.

Checking the resistor both sides getting the same told the mechanic that the resistor was not "open" therefore is assumed "good" unless the voltage at the coil is "wrong". The volts at the coil are "right". So the Ford A8NN 12250-B "ballast resistor" is correct for your installation with the OEM 6 volt coil.

Ampmeter reading, I would not worry too much as the factory amp meter is not a "precision, lab grade instrument", consider it an indicator. As long as it kicks positive, its good to go.

Compression being relative "equal" is better news than 80 lbs. I might add a can of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to the crankcase for about 10 hours of running and then change oil and filter to a good 10-40 wt and then take the compression again. First dry, and then wet with a couple squirts of oil down the sparkplug hole. If compression jumps up major amount, means rings are worn. BUT as long as you have enuff power to do what you need to do and it starts eazy, don't worry.

Thank you for the feedback report, glad your "Wimpster" is up and running..... ..Dell

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9N'er

07-12-2000 06:37:19




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 Re: Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to Dell (WA), 07-11-2000 12:20:17  
Hey Dell...question: let's assume the rings are worn (probably a good assumption). What is involved in replacing them? Second question: would it be "one of those jobs" that if I'm going to rip into it and replace the rings, I should probably go further and replace the sleeves, turn the crankshaft, check main bearings, and rebuild...is that generally the case with this kind of process? 3rd Question: Assuming the tractor may or may not be split, if it is split, probably a new clutch and plates would be in order too...huh? Anyways, I would think that I would have the engine removed and drive it or ship it to a rebuilder. What would be the cost for such a job...I hear about 1k. is that right? thanks Dell. 9N'er

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Dell (WA)

07-12-2000 11:20:03




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 Re: Re: Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to 9N'er, 07-12-2000 06:37:19  
9N'er..... .oooh my goodness, sucha buncha expensive questions. Generally, overhaul decisions are made because the engine doesn't have enuff power, does't start eazy, burns so much oil the sparkplugs are always fouling up. How long can you afford to have the tractor "tied up"?

My advice, if you don't know what you're doing, pay a competent mechanic to check your engine out. If you want to get that involved, see if you can find a "night class" at the local high school for some training. There are some good general "how to" books at the local libarary to help with your eduication process. Idiots can do it, but it helps to be an eduicated idiot (grin).

1. to replace rings, remove cylinder head, remove pistons, replace rod bearings.

2. crank bearings depend upon micrometer readings of crankshaft, wheather needs to be reground

3. almost always have to split tractor to haul engine to machine shop for crank and cylinder work. so yes, replace the clutch disk and throughout bearing

4. Cost, DIY $400+, local machine shop $1200 which may or may not have ever seen a tractor engine, $1400 for factory rebuilt

Then ya' opens yer wallet and lets 'em fly..... .Dell

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9N'er

07-12-2000 14:24:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to Dell (WA), 07-12-2000 11:20:03  
I wouldn't think of doing it myself...way over my head. I'm lucky to get the grounds right for the battery! Well, someday, when I win the lotto or something like that; i'll ship it off. By the way, I placed the hood and fenders on the tractor toady...they are primed, need some final sanding...then it's the paint and clear sealer. Starting to look more like a tractor...but still a ways off from posting a pic. Will this project ever end? I suspect not. -9n'er p.s. thanks too.

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9n'er

07-11-2000 12:38:05




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 Re: Re: 9N 31649 Engine test results... in reply to Dell (WA), 07-11-2000 12:20:17  
thanks Dell. I agree, the 80 reading on compression is not all that great...but it is acceptable (or on the low end of the acceptability scale). Will try the oil treatment as you suggest. We didn't really let the compression reding max out...and probably could have seen a higher reading than 80...maybe toward 90-100, but he was more interested in equal values and rates more than anything else. I sort -of wished we turned it over a few more cranks to see what the upper reading could be. I was more happy with the resistor reading and saw just what everyone was trying to tell me. That was good news...and I learned a lot through this effort. The other rsult was that this engine is performing ok. Not great, not poor, but ok. Tells' me that there is no rush for a rebuild in the near future. Mechanic said...no need to do it and was surprised that came up in our discussions. He said that he liked what he saw and heard. Dell, thanks for your asistance through this technical matter. 9N'er

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