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Castelated nuts

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Old George

07-20-2000 06:15:50




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Folks,
I've been through the archives and found alot of good discussion on connecting rod nuts and locknuts but I am a bit perplexed as I could find nothing that sounded remotely similar to what I found during this 2N engine rebuild. Both the connecting rod and main caps are/were secured with castelated nuts. The ones on the rods were secured with cotter pins and the mains with safety wire through both. Can these be reused or should they be replaced? And if they are replaced, should I try and find new castelated nuts or go to the nut/locknut way? Thanks in advance for assistance.

Alan Esch
45 2N 183513

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Tom-Pa

07-20-2000 15:47:50




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
Castellated nuts are designed to be used with cotter keys(pins). I can take a new one and thread it up till snug on a bolt with my fingers. Dell, check your NAS books. You should tighten till snug with a wrench then back off one slot so the cotter key fits. then bend the ends of the cotter key apart. A nut with a hole drilled thru one side flat to adjacent flat is for use with saftey wire. Nuts with the small end slightly smaller is a selflocking nut (or with a nylon insert). These need no other safety. One time use only, for safety. Flat nuts usually need a check or lock nut to ensure remaining where you want it. Hope this helps
Tom
airline maint inspector!

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Larry 8N75381

07-20-2000 13:06:04




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
Alan,

I just looked in my (original) 1946 parts book.
YES, both main and rod bearing caps have castle nuts, AND there is a cotter pin called out for the rod bearing cap. Specifically, direct from the parts book;
Part No. B-6348 NUT - spec. castle 1/2-20 - bearing cap studs
Part No. 18-6212 NUT - connecting rod - special
Part No. 352250-S PIN - cotter - special

HOWEVER,
My (original) 1956 Parts book shows that the main bearing studs have been replaced with bolts AND the rod bearing cap has two nuts, one locking the other.
Again direct from the parts book - [added info by me];
Part No. 8N-6345-A Bolt-Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap [shorter for the plain caps]
Part No. 8N-6346-A Bolt-Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap [for oil pump]
Part No. 34809-S7 Washer 1/2" Lock [for above bolts]
Part No. 354128-S Nut 3/8" - 24 (Connecting Rod)
Part No. 45218-S Nut 3/8" - 24 (Connecting Rod Lock)

The bolts are shown for the 9N,2N,8N only.
The nuts are shown for 9N,2N,8N,NAA,600,700,800,900.

Hope this information is helpful.

Maybe Zane can add his years of expearence to this thread.

Regards,
Larry

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Old George

07-20-2000 17:44:49




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 Re: Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Larry 8N75381, 07-20-2000 13:06:04  
Well that sounds interesting! As unreasonable as it sounds, I don't think this engine has ever been rebuilt. What do you think Zane, go ahead and reuse em if they lasted 55 years? Or do we go with the "new and improved"?



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Dell (WA)

07-20-2000 12:05:36




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
Ol' George..... ....actually, your "castelated" nuts are really a form of lock nut because the "turrets" are imperceptly "squeezed" for a smaller bore in the nut and thus are wedged open upon installation. Advantages: 1 piece, balanced, works in oily environment unlike "nylon" inserted locknuts, works in high temp areas unlike nylon, no lockwire reqd, does not weaken bolt as drilling for lockwire can.

As for what you have described in your 2N having cotter pins on the rod bearing caps (gad, the potential for unbalanced rotating masses scares the #ell out of me) and safety wire on the main bearing caps, tells me whomever rebuilt your 2N engine preivously, at least knew enuff that locknuts are a "use 1 and thro away" item, so instead of buying new lock nuts, he mechanically secured them as a way of saving a few bucks, or perhaps did not have access to new lock nuts.

Now then, these engine castelated nuts are different than the big castelated nuts with cotter pins that hold the 3-point lower pins in the axle trumpets.

Now then, wheather to use new "safety castelated nuts" without safetywire, or new 2 piece safety nut scheme, ya' pays yer moneys an' takes yer choices. Either way, you should use new safety nuts to prevent expensive noises. Hope this helps..... ....Dell

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Carlock

07-20-2000 07:51:51




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
Reuse them. They are so lightly loaded they will be fine. Just use new pins or safty wire.



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TimK

07-20-2000 06:29:05




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
I had the approximately the same condition when I rebuilt my 2n, although the castle nuts on the rods were not cotter pinned. I reused the pinned and wired ones on the main caps and the oil pump, although I can't imagine one of those main caps coming loose if it wasn't pinned and wired (I guess it just made me feel good !). I junked the ones on the rods and went to my local NAPA store, in the racing section, and got self locking rod nuts. They look like regular nuts except they are pinched out of round on one end so they tighten up when you screw them on. Makes a nice, clean and secure job.

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David

07-20-2000 06:28:26




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 Re: Castelated nuts in reply to Old George, 07-20-2000 06:15:50  
When I recently replaced the bearings in my NAA I found castellated nuts on the rods but with no pins or wire (or holes in the bolts for them). I assume they were some form of locking nut replaced at some point because I think the originals were nuts with locking pal nuts. My NAPA guy gave me regular automotive rod locking nuts to replace them. So far so good. I'd probably replace them but others with more mechanical experience may have other opinions.

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