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Rustoleum follow up

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Nolan

08-23-2000 12:17:50

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A while ago I posted that I'd thinned the heck out of some Rustoleum rusty metal primer and that it seemed to soak into the metal. But I wasn't sure about this, or how well this was going to work in the long term.

This past weekend I was at a trapping convention, and the subject of speed dyes was covered by a techno weenie. Now I better understand what happened with the metal and am far more confident.

Yes, by thinning the primer down greatly with acetone it did indeed soak into the metal pores. It will last like I hoped. The only way to get it out is to grind the metal down. Not simply sand the surface, but grind the top metal itself off. This is a yippee thing if you want whatever you painted to simply last. It's a cuss'n thing if you plan on welding it or such.

To date, the various pieces of metal I treated this way about a year ago are doing just fine. Rusting away are the things I didn't coat this way.

May one of you find this tidbit usefull.

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Mike OH

08-23-2000 13:43:56

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Re: Rustoleum follow up in reply to Nolan, 08-23-2000 12:17:50

I've painted my tractor wheels with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and used FNH gray paint over top and am quite happy with the outcome. Never heard of thinning it with acetone, so I can't comment on that practice, but it's been over 10 years and no rust. however the gray did tend to weather and dull thru use and exposure and only required a topcote to look like new again. Thanks for the tip. I will be sure and try it in the future. What ratio of paint to acetone did you use?

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Nolan

08-24-2000 03:27:38

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Re: Re: Rustoleum follow up in reply to Mike OH, 08-23-2000 13:43:56

About 50/50. No high tech measurements or chemical balances. I stumbled onto this by being annoyed with how thick the rusty metal primer is in the first place. Some I had had thickened even further, so I just poured a good bit of acetone in there to see what would happen.

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TimK

08-23-2000 13:23:58

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Re: Rustoleum follow up in reply to Nolan, 08-23-2000 12:17:50

I have done lots of auto painting. While what you say is true, the minute you expose ferrous metal to the air it forms an oxide. The metal doesn't even have to be wet. You may not even be able to see the oxide, but it's there. Painting over with primer and topcoat won't stop the oxidation (rust), which results in future peeling of the paint. Your thinned primer is not stopping the oxidation, but is is probably getting into more of metal surface scratches and "pores" which in turn makes for better coverage and "tooth" for the topcoat, and in fact outlasting the things you painted without thinned primer. By the way, some rust preventative paints used to claim they used fish oil in the paint to prevent rust, which makes me laugh. The only way you stop the oxidation is with a metal etcher (i.e. prep) found in the auto painting section of the auto parts store. Dupont has a product called Quick prep. Dupont also has a primer/etcher product, one step. Use these when the metal is exposed and before doing any painting. Rustoleum also has a metal prep you can buy from a hardware store. All will neutralize the oxides with a chemical process and in fact, except for the primer/etcheer, turn the metal into a sort of blue color. I used the Rustoleum prep 3 years ago on some badly rusted N headlights process, and the overcoat of enamel is still as good as the day they were painted.

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Scott

08-23-2000 14:26:07

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Re: Re: Rustoleum follow up in reply to TimK, 08-23-2000 13:23:58

Your prep solution that turns the metal a sort of blue color
is most likely a phosphoric acid solution (often
sold as Ospho brand in hardware stores).
It turns the iron oxide into iron phosphate which
adheres to the paint better. While it is not a real strong solution, rubber gloves are recommended. It also does wonders at removing light rust from stainless steel.

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