Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Discussion Forum
:

9-n Follow UP

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Ross in NH

08-30-2000 15:54:06




Report to Moderator

I posted a few days ago about my 9-n That will not restart after it has run for some time. the replys i got where check the carb all is well there filters are clean, float is ok etc. I think that it may be electrical I just replaced the condensor cause I had one kicking around. How do you check a coil to see if there is a problem with it? I always thought they worked or they were fried. I have been told that when a engine starts to get hot that the points will close up and need to be re set if that is the case how do you keep them tight enough so they will stay put. I have already re set the points and they have been lock tighted in . But it still has the problem. working on these front mount distrbuters makes me want 3 arms and double joints. I have looked for loose wires shorts etc. Any more thoughts out there.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Fernando

07-20-2001 19:56:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: 9-n Follow UP in reply to Ross in NH, 08-30-2000 15:54:06  
I need a picture of the wireing harness of a n-9 tractor. i replaced the wiring and dont remember where everything went.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Don8NAZ

08-30-2000 18:10:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: 9-n Follow UP in reply to Ross in NH, 08-30-2000 15:54:06  
This is copy of an answer I gave a week ago. Hope it helps.

Ok, Ross, I assume that you have a 6v positive ground system with no spark and the points and condensor have been replaced.

Go back and check the points for the correct gap.

Obtain a handheld voltmeter ($8 from Radio Shack). connect the red(+) lead to the tractor frame.

Place the black lead to the negative side of the battery. Should get something like 6v. If not, find another place to ground the red lead on the tractor.

Move the black lead to the key switch terminals. With the key off, one side of the switch should read 6v, the other connector should read 0v. If they both read 0v, check the wiring between the battery and the keyswitch connectors. Done.

Turn the key on, the two connectors should now read exactly the same voltage. If not, remove the tester, short the two keyswitch connectors together and watch you tractor start the first time. (Replace the keyswitch.) Done.

If keyswitch voltages are correct, leave the keyswitch ON. If you can get to the resistor behind the dash, carefully probe one side, then the other side of the resistor with your black lead. One side of the resistor should read close to the battery voltage that you got at the keyswitch, the other side of the resistor should read somewhat less (as much as 1/2 the keyswitch voltage).

If you are not getting the full keyswitch voltage on one of the two resistor terminals, check the wiring between the keyswitch and the resistor. Done.

If one side of the resistor is full keyswitch voltage and the other side is 0v then either a) the wiring between the resistor and the coil is shorted to ground, or b) the resistor itself has opened and needs to be replaced. Note that condition a) might very well cause condition b). Check the wiring between resistor and coil and replace the resistor. Done.

If both sides of the resistor show somewhat normal voltages, move to the coil. One side of the coil connects to the resistor you just came from and the other side of the coil connects to the points. Make sure that the battery side of the coil has the same voltage that you read at the resistor terminal. If it is not the same, then check the wiring between the resistor and the coil for opens. Done.

If the bat side of the coil has the correct voltage (same as at the resistor), then place the black lead on the other side (the points side) of the coil. Rotate the dist (or bump the starter) until the points are closed (as in the contacts touching each other). The voltage at the points side of the coil should read 0v. Any other voltage than 0v then either a) the points are not closed (regap them, try again) or b) the wire between the points and coil is open (replace the wire). Done

If 0v is found with the points closed, then rotate the dist (or bump the starter) until the points are open. With the points open the points side of the coil should read very close to the same voltage as the battery side of the coil. If the points side voltage is still 0v, the either a) the points are not open (regap the points, try again), or b) there is a short in the wiring between the points and the coil (locate and replace wire). Done.

Hope this helps. Use the sidebar to the left to search for wiring diagrams.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
9N'er

08-30-2000 17:44:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: 9-n Follow UP in reply to Ross in NH, 08-30-2000 15:54:06  
you're experiencing the N blues when it comes to spark and no spark. Personally for me, it comes down to two things: replacing what are the old or suspect parts with new and good parts, and checking the current flow from the battery to the distributor.

Ensure you have a charged battery or new battery, good coil and ballast resistor, and that the points are cleaner than clean, gap and timing are all set. Check the cap and ensure the contacts and rotor are clean and shiny. Next, check the connections from the igntion switch, to the ballast resistor, to the top of the coil. Check the current flow. Check the wire at the top of the coil, tight, and current is flowing to it. Meter should show 3.5 to 5-6 volts at that place.

Check the ground and tight contact. scrape away paint if any or dirt to have good metal to metal contacts. Replace any suspect wires. How are the spark plug wires, are they tight and set in the distributor cap? shorting out? good insulation? If you were close I would stop in for a beer, kick the tires and go through it with you. I have two decent 6V coils to let you use. I endd up putting on a 12V coil and ballast resistor, and have had good success with that. Where in NH? Anyways, I'll e-mail you. 9n'er

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Roscoe

08-30-2000 17:38:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: 9-n Follow UP in reply to Ross in NH, 08-30-2000 15:54:06  
Zed-MD is right. Remove the 2 bolts that attach the distributor and remove from the tractor to work on it. It's easier than it sounds and the shaft is indexed so it can't be put back on wrong.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Zed-MD

08-30-2000 16:39:34




Report to Moderator
 Re: 9-n Follow UP in reply to Ross in NH, 08-30-2000 15:54:06  
Just checking. But you do know that the distributor is removable with just 2 bolts and can be worked while sitting at the kitchen table. That is if you can get permission.

Sam



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy