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Having had all day to think about my quickly written reply this morning, I'd like to add some more. Besides the continuing posts on "I'm having trouble, and oh, by the way, it is a 12V system", there are the "I've rebuilt the carb - three times - and it still won't start/keep running/quits" OR the "This is the umpteenth time I'v replace the points... AND coil and distributer and ... all the rest of the electrical system. ONLY to find out the problem was the carb or some other part of the fuel system for the electrical component/system replacers. AND vis versa for the carb rebuilders. I should thank Dell and Claus for backing me up on my first reply. And ask them, if they reread this thread, is this not a reoccurring event? And as to Claus's telling about ads seeming to brag that they have a 12v system, that would IMMEDIEATELY tell me that tractor has problems that the guy selling it could not get fixed. Buyer BEWARE!!! SO, Art, if your REAL problem is carburation, compression, or, a new one on me, dust in the distributer, then changing to 12v will do little to fix the problem. The N's are a low compression engine with only four cylinders. It just is not that hard to turn them over. A good 6v battery with GOOD connections all the way to a good starter is more than enough! I say that because of the following. I had an old 1950 Plymouth in college. The engine was a 6 cylinder flat head, with many more HP than an N. In other words, a lot harder to turn over than an N. It was just a 6v system! The last winter I was in Iowa there was a ten day spell that didn't get above zero the whole time. The low every morning was minus twenty or lower - lowest was -28. That lowest morning was the ONLY morning I didn't start that car. I even tried, and might have made it, but descretion is the better part of valor, so I stopped before I ran the battery down. I came back at lunch, still almost -20, and got it started, mostly to recharge the battery. NOW if a 6v battery can do that, it most certianly can start that litle N engine. Claus, I had a thought that might help the "timid" keep the 6V faith. They could add a switch to bypass the balast resistor. That should help to get good sparkies while the battery is grunting turning the starter. BUT, most important, use a momentary normally open switch, like a door bell button. That way leaving the switch closed and, "Horrors!", burning up the coil would not happen accidently. Comments?!? Not to "pile on" Dave, but to make a point re: an 8v battery. I bought a low S# for a restoration project. Someone had put in an 8V battery for the gal I bought the tractor from. Tractor ran fine when I test ran it. Got it home and began to have problems starting. When I checked the battery cables, one just came loose when I tugged on it. The clamp had been tightened to the max! You simply could NOT tighten it any more. The hole some how had gotten enlarged to the point were it hardly held on the post. Then I rememberd her saying, "sometimes she had to 'tap' on the clamp to get it to start." *&^%$#@! the clamp-post interface was full of corrosion!! The 8V battery was a waste of time and money. A new set of cables is much cheaper than a new 8v battery. NUMBER ONE rule on 6V electrical systems.
The post/clamp MUST be ABSOLUTELY FREE of corrosion!!!! Nolan, back me up on this, please! And, of course, tight - like, lift the battery up by the cable and the clamp will not let go. NUMBER TWO rule, is like unto that, all electrical connections must be clean AND tight. My old treatise on why batteries fail and how to keep them alive the longest has been over written in the archives. I'll have to rewrite it for the new guys, but not tonight. This ramble has gotten long enough! Larry
8N75381
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