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Electrical idiot

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Pitch

09-21-2000 13:39:34




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Please don't laugh or yell, I attempted put a new(central Tractor)wiring harness on my front mount 8n Did ok untill I got to the resister block and even looking at Neils diagram was totally lost. What I finally did was attempt to match the wire sizes listed in the FO 4 to that diagram. Tractor started ,resister block smoked,and ampmeter went thru the roof. Did I fry my brand new resister block? and what else did I fry in the process? I shut it down after about 30 seconds.

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Terry G

09-22-2000 07:04:00




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 Re: Electrical idiot in reply to Pitch, 09-21-2000 13:39:34  
I think I remember reading on this forum that smoke is what makes electrical parts work. When you let the smoke out of them they usually quit working.(:
Terry G



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Claus

09-22-2000 07:52:45




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 Re: Re: Electrical idiot in reply to Terry G, 09-22-2000 07:04:00  
You are absolutely correct. It is the semiconductor quality of smoke that makes things work. That is why new ballast resistors usually smoke when they are new. After they wear a little the smoke becomes invisable. Never let it out, because as you found out, if you let it out it will go up to the clouds and cause lightning and thunder and your stuff will no longer work, especially if the lightning hits it.
Happy Motoring
Claus

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Claus

09-21-2000 13:59:05




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 Re: Electrical idiot in reply to Pitch, 09-21-2000 13:39:34  
Maybe a Psychic can answer that question. Ever since my chrystal ball broke I have trouble with stuff like this. Just because the ballast smoked and the ammeter pegged does not necessarily mean that they are destroyed. On the other hand they could be toast. You cannot go by wire colors or sizes for the correct wiring. Neil's diagram shows the correct wiring. You need to approach it by tracing each wire from end to end. Example: Generator Field to Voltage Regualtor Field, Generator Armature to Voltage Regulator Armature (Sometimes called Gen) Run a copy of his diagram and trace out each wire in this fashion and mark the diagram when the wire checks out..
Happy Motoring
Claus

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BrentD

09-21-2000 14:54:39




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 Re: Re: Electrical idiot in reply to Claus, 09-21-2000 13:59:05  
Claus,
I posted a question about wiring my key switch to the resistor block, and I was sorta hoping I'd get your answer. I wired just like the old one, which put one of the leads on the same side of the resistor as the coil wire. The other one goes to the bottom of the terminal block. It works very well, and if I wire it "correctly" it will not start but just spin slowly.

I don't like the way I have it, but maybe that's okay somehow.

It's a 6V + Ground early 48 8N.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
Brent

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Claus

09-21-2000 15:38:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Electrical idiot in reply to BrentD, 09-21-2000 14:54:39  
That will bypass the ballast resistor and coil failure is not far into your future. Wire one side of the key switch to the other side of your ballast resistor. (opposite of coil wire) The other side of the key switch goes to the bottom of the terminal block. If you wire it correctly, and it will not start, I would suspect that you have an open ballast resistor. I would replace it. You could confirm this with an ohm meter. Or measure the voltage at the coil primary terminal. It should be around 3.5 volts with the points closed and 6 volts with the points open.
Happy Motoring
Claus

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BrentD

09-22-2000 07:08:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Electrical idiot in reply to Claus, 09-21-2000 15:38:08  
Thanks Claus.
I put 15-18 hr on it that way last weekend. And unknown hours on it previously that way. I'll have to redo it and get it right.

I don't know what a ballast resistor is, or where it's located, but I'll hunt it down. I don't see in on Neil's wiring diagram.

If I do indeed have an "open ballast resistor" would that have any effect on the engine's performance at high rpm? It runs rough at high load but runs very well up to about 2/3 throttle or a bit more.

Brent

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