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Woodstove chimney

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Nolan

09-22-2000 03:51:34




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It has nothing to do with an N (though I guess I could park it in the kitchen). But I respect you all and your knowledge about farm things, so I'd like to ask for some help and advice on my woodstove chimney.

I've got a hundred year old wooden house, with a brick chimney running up through it. It's not outside, it's an inside chimney. Teracotta liner, but it's pretty well shot. The chimney isn't safe to use as it stands right now. It needs a liner of some sort. Yes, I've been a safe home owner and haven't used the woodstove because of this.

I've gotten estimates in putting in a wiz bang metal liner, as well as the thermacrete type, and I can't afford either. Not that I can afford to heat the house this year with the oil furnace either.

So I've had two briliant thoughts that I'd like to run by you folks.

One is to put one of those ugly stainless steel chimneys up the side of the house. That's going to cost me several hundred dollars, it'll look weird (starting about 15' above the ground), and I can ill afford it. But it's a possibility.

The other notion (the one I rather like) is to use that black chimney pipe that normally runs from the woodstove to the main chimney, and snake it up inside the old brick and teracotta chimney. I can fill up the gap between them with vermiculite for better insulation and more fire protection. Seems to me that this one would work, and I can definately afford it. Wouldn't last for too many years because those pipes do burn out, but I could also replace them pretty easily.

So am I totally off base with this? Believe me, any feedback, from gut feelings to super expert advice is requested.

Oh, and one last thing, any of you all know about woodstoves and infants? My wife has raised the question about soot and an infants lungs. I don't know the answer, and the tricycle motor is due in a few weeks. So if you know anything about that, please pipe in.

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Dave 50 8n

09-22-2000 23:46:55




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
When we first got a wood stove, we got a big ol' inefficient hunkin' used one. Got some 6" thin-walled pipe and cut, popped, and banged that together until, by golly, it went pretty much vertical with a jog up and over and connected it with the insulation (or whatever it's called) box at the ceiling. Well, the stove took 8" pipe, but I got a reducer. I should've stayed with 8" because....

The old stove worked ok, but if you had that puppy with a good hot fire dampered down real low, and opened the door too fast, to add wood, FAROOMPHTH! ...lots of smoke poured into the room and beeping of the fire alarm and kids running around yelling that the alarm went off and wife waving a kitchen towel or bath towel or big couch pillow at the alarm with the front and back doors open at 10pm when it's 33 degrees outside. Where's Norman Rockwell, when you need him?

Well, we finally bought a new super duper gol dang brang spangler new efficient stove and had them guys come and install it for us. They used 6" thin walled pipe and screwed it together real tight. We burned something called "energy logs" (real big pellets...compressed sawdust) last winter, and while it was pretty neat...burns hot, you're recycling, @.85/log, it was probably 75+% more expensive than oak ($185/cord, delivered). The new stove is very efficient and allows you to damp the fire down to a blue flame, which is burning more of the gasses, rather than letting them go up the chimmney.

Dave #1 asked about pellet stoves...everyone around here is turning them in (as well as wood stoves) for the very clean and easy propane stoves. Friends of ours have an older pellet stove. They can really burn efficiently. The fuel comes in bags you store someplace dry and is cheaper than oak cordwood, The exhaust is not too hot and is likened to a dryer (so I am told). Low ashes to clean up. Drawbacks...they need electricity to run the fan (batt. backup?). Astethetics are kinda low too since the flame is real small. They're also noisy.

Well, good luck with whatever you do. The fire and CO2 alarms are a must, and I don't know how you would check the tightness of an old stove, but it shouldn't leak fumes/gas inside the house. I'm kinda obesssive here...no matter how cold it is outside, we usually keep a near window cracked for fresh air. (interesting ideas mentioned earlier re: vents in baseboards). If you go with that thin walled pipe, you might see how much it would be to have it installed professionally. As alluded to, resin-y woods create lots of crud in your chimney (note other posts re: cleaning regularly).

If you have natural gas or propane available, there are lots of options too, and some new stoves don't need the clearance that older ones needed. Some even claim to be "ventless" not requiring a chimmney...???

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Cort in Montana

09-22-2000 16:59:31




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan;

Black pipe up an existing chimney will work safely, but do leave air between the pipe and the walls of the chimney. Air is a good insulator and the thermodynamics of chimney action will tend to pull any CO leaks up and out. However GET CO DETECTORS near the stove and in all bedrooms in addition to smoke detectors.

Also very important is to make sure that all stove vent inlets work properly, and the door seals properly too. You absolutely must be able to control air flow into your stove. Ideally a stove should be air tight. If you can't throttle air flow back to the stove, the fire will burn too hot and fast, making your chimney hotter than it should causing premature failure. Check the building code in your area to determine how close to walls and ceilings you are suppose to locate your stove, and follow those guidelines as a minimum. You should set your stove on some fire slate too, or what ever they call it in your part of the country. Please sweep your flue out at least once a month.

Where I live in Montana many people heat totally with wood and burn all sorts of wood to boot, even heavy sooting woods like semi green spruce and pine. I am the vice president of the Craig Fire Department here in Craig Montana and of all the stove related fires I've been to were the result of inability to choke off incoming air flow to the stove (causing a very hot stove), stove mounted too close to combustible material / walls, and failure to sweep chimneys.

Also keep the little motor away from the stove, 300 degrees will cause major damage to your tricycle engine, rendering unless for its intended purpose.

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rbell

09-22-2000 15:10:47




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan, I have but few words to say on the issue. If you value your wife and childrens lives and your house, DONT mickey mouse your flue. I could introduce you to cheap flue survivors, and show you the graves of those who didn't. Wood heat requires a solid flue! I know Gradpa always did it with tin pipe, but Grandpa had much hotter fires. Todays stoves build much more cresote and cause many more flue fires. Its just like cleaning N parts with gas (only you are normally asleep when a flue fire happens). I'll shut up now.

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Fred OH

09-22-2000 11:56:05




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan, read with interest the replies on this and felt I had to comment. I'll go against the grain for what it's worth so you'll see all the angles. I wouldn't put the wood stove in the house, I'd put it in a metal building outside and plumb the thing right into your fuel oil furnace ducting. The metal bldg. should have a opening cut into one wall for fitting a furnace type filter and an electric blower with a thermostat in the house. This method eliminates all the fire hazards, CO hazards and the general dusty mess that a wood stove makes and no burned kids, young or old. I have seen this setup and it was great. Later, I saw a stove sitting outside (with no bldg.) and I think it had a stainless steel top and chimney with duct work going into the house. The guy that owned it told me that some people were there that wanted to take pictures of it and put it in a magazine. And as we looked out the window, there was someone taking a picture of it just then. The stove that was used in the building was a Riteway (fabricated steel) and had fins 1/8" x 2" flat iron welded all over it to help it disipate heat more efficiently, the floor was concrete. The bldg. was large enough to store some wood in too, but not necessary. From thinking about it, the duct work would have to have a check valve or something to keep the fuel oil furnace from kicking on and forcing heat back out the outside stoves ductwork. This project would be as neat as an N Ford, so it does belong here. L8R----Fred OH

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tlak

09-22-2000 13:29:17




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 Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Fred OH, 09-22-2000 11:56:05  
I ran across some of the exterior woodstoves when I was looking into waste oil burning for heat. Their out there but the ones I ran into were for commercial use.



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tlak

09-22-2000 11:46:40




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
This might interest you.



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9n'er

09-23-2000 04:51:02




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 Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to tlak, 09-22-2000 11:46:40  
another reason why I chose not to be the glorymeister or the American hero with western fires this year. It is a dirty, rancid, smoke eating, living, lying in ash, walking through ash up to your knees and breathing the poof clouds of it all day long, and still cleaning black crud out of you sinuses two weeks later. got to the point where the money just wasn't worth it. Then after living in it, lying in it, breathin it, hiking hard in it, swingin a pulaski in it, ya get to ride back to fire camp down dirt roads that are so dry and filled with 12 or more inches of deep road dust, and you sit in the bus as the air fills with the dirt dust, and you say: "man, this is living!"

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Salmoneye

09-22-2000 13:55:14




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 Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to tlak, 09-22-2000 11:46:40  
Excellent info!

One question though...
Who the heck burns Douglas Fir, and especially
at $125 a cord???



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Cort in Montana

09-22-2000 16:09:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Salmoneye, 09-22-2000 13:55:14  
Sal;

You aren't from Montana are you.



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Salmoneye...Nope-VT, and Fir is for lumber and pulp here...

09-23-2000 04:51:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Cort in Montana, 09-22-2000 16:09:00  
Fir is nowhere near 22 million BTU's/cord.
It is closer to 18. 22 would put it close to Ash and Birch, which it aint.

$125 a cord, cut split and delivered, 2 year seasoned, better be Oak, Maple and at the least Ash, or don't bother unloading the truck :-)



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Gaspump

09-22-2000 09:43:44




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
To address the question about the infants lungs. I remember that during the energy crunch of the 70's & 80's many people in cold climates installed wood burners as main heat or secondary heat sources. Shortly thereafter the incidence of respiratory ailments in these areas increased dramatically. I recall but did not locate an extensive research program carried out by the Univ. of Mich and/or the Univ, of Minn. Results of the study were related to your question and resulted in new standards for wood burners and installation. Wood is a good fuel but precautions must be taken with wood or any other fuel to insure good air quality.

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Dale O'9N

09-22-2000 08:42:43




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Go with the pipe up the old chimney. Don't fill it with anything though. Like someone said, leave a small vent for updraft around the new pipe. This will take any future leak up and out. If you put a small pvc pipe through the floor by the wood stove to the out side, with a screen on it, you will not need to open a window for the fresh air you will need. This will also provide air supply for the draft by the new pipe. Some people pull the trim off next to the fireplace and run a pipe there. Then put the trim back with some type of cute vent cover. No hole in the floor that way. Bottom line. As long as there is a draft around the new pipe, it won't hurt anything. On the kids. They learn hot once, and that generaly takes care of it. Teach them early. None of my 4 girls got burned on my parents stove. They were around it a lot. Good luck. Be safe. Dale in VA.

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Zed-MD

09-22-2000 08:42:09




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan,
Whatever you decide to do with the chimney make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector. Just in case.

Sam

Dell, you should add this to your list of sermons.



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tom 8N396936

09-22-2000 08:53:59




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 Re: Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Zed-MD, 09-22-2000 08:42:09  
Nolan, if you going to go with either system PLEASE pick up one of those chimney fire sticks at the hardware. Keep it near the source and teach everyone how to use and what to look for with regard to a chimney fire. Chimney fires can be scary and dangerous

IMHO

tom



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Zed-MD

09-22-2000 08:41:26




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan,
Whatever you decide to do with the chimney make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector. Just in case.

Sam

Dell, you should add this to your list of sermons.



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well.....Dell (WA)

09-22-2000 08:27:41




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan..... back in Colorado, where I was raised up, the sheepherders wagon, the cowboys line shack, the miners cabin, all had their lil' ol' potbelly stove just inside the only door and the stovepipe elbowed out the front wall. This prevented the roof from leaking and the draft from the front door was warmed up by the time it got back to the bunk at the other end. They all stunk anyways, made yer eyes watter, you know the once a year bath kinda thing. But they were all glad to share a cuppa the hottest, strongest, coffee this young kid can remember. No double latte's decaf's for them..... ...Dell

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Phil R (IL/MT)

09-22-2000 07:39:08




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
I have been using that black pipe in my wood burner for about 18 years, it has not burned out yet although a flue fire sure did get it hot once. I learned my lesson, sweep them about every two weeks depending on the age and type of wood you are burning.. I think the black pipe is ok if you take care of it.. p



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george s

09-22-2000 07:29:39




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Like the others said,your best bet is the real liner,but the stove pipe will probably last a couple years if your in a pinch,screw it together securely if you go that route. As for soot and stuff,thats what the chimneys for.You shouldn't get anything in the house unless you open the door with the damper closed. you should see what you get in the house when an oil burner puffs back! As for babies, have a security fence,or gate and show them early what hot is.Sure makes an impression on them!!

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Dave 8N397478

09-22-2000 05:54:04




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan, I would also go with the liner with the chimney running inside the middle of the house. The draft is better due to the warm air of the house surrounding the chimney. Also, the chimney is easier to clean when it's in the middle of the roof vs the side of the house.
All four of my kids grew up to respect a woodstove, and now they have it fired up when I come home from work. It's where everybody "hangs" out. Woodstoves pump out a lot more heat than those pellet models. Good luck, and always have a working fire extinguisher nearby for any emergency in your home.

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Salmoneye

09-22-2000 05:15:09




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan,

I am in the same boat.
I have na inside chimney that is not safe and I will not use it.
I am leaning towards the full length (professionally installed) liner. I want to know it is safe before I use it. I have a 'metal-bestos' stainless chimney in another part of the house that works great and was only about $200 complete with my own labor for the install. That included the insulated piece through the roof, and 3, 4 foot sections to get the draft above the peak of the roof. Works great!

As for infants and stoves...Have a 3 year old that has never gone near the thing.
Tried to instill early that it was 'Hot' and seems to have worked. She loves to watch me fill it though...

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dave#1

09-22-2000 04:58:15




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
I would'nt line your old chimney with single wall pipe of any kind, seems it would be to hard to inspect it.

What about one of those wood pellet stoves ?? I don't know much about them, I guess you can run the pipe out a window, there's some kind of a blower that blows air out along with the exshaust??, keeps the pipe temp down????

I for one would like somemore info on wood pellet stoves, might be something to think about????

later,dave

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8n64something

09-22-2000 04:31:58




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 Re: Woodstove chimney in reply to Nolan, 09-22-2000 03:51:34  
Nolan, besides heat that liner has to contain CO; as the pipe starts to rust out you will get pinhole leaks before you see holes. With the chimney inside the house that's pretty dangerous. The liner would give you years of service with nominal maintainance (sounds like an N, doesn't it?) and no worries at night. If you do go with the black pipe, don't pack around it; letting air circulate up & out alongside it, is the best insulation there is. Make sure you have a CO monitor.

The most dirt in your air will be from cleaning ashes, clean it when the flue's warm & you can send most of the strays up the chimney. Make sure to get one of those cute little baby fences to go around the stove; besides the obvious, my daughter learned to stand & walk holding on to the one at my stove.

Hope all works out, Happy Heating
Greg in NJ

P.S. Although it sounds cozy, don't clean your N carb by the stove on a cold winter's night (don't ask.)

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