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Fixing Crack in Block

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Arnold - MD

10-23-2000 06:02:43




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I took the head off my 8N in preparation for replacing the head gasket. I was doing this because there was water in the oil after I replaced the radiator. There is a crack in the block (where the head attaches) about 12 inches long that runs along the left (when sitting in the seat).

Is this something that can be fixed (welded and then milled possibly), or should I start looking for another block?

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Dave Todd

10-25-2000 14:40:13




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 Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Arnold - MD, 10-23-2000 06:02:43  
My 51 has a cracked block and has been welded then it seems whoever did it then sealed the weld with lead. It has never leaked on me. I just bought a 48 block from the same person, and it was done the same way. Anyone ever heard of this for repairs?? Anyone need a good block with a weld, cheep??? I'm keeping the crank, but will let the rest go.
Dave



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Larry 8N75381

10-23-2000 17:12:40




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 Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Arnold - MD, 10-23-2000 06:02:43  
Arnold,

I stuck a copy of a thread from 1998 on welding at the URL below. It is very long so I "hid it" by attaching it to an old post that will "die" soon, as it's number gets over run. I didn't want to burden the "casual" post reader by putting it all in here. Pay no attention to the name of the thread, etc. since I just found a convient thread to use as an attachment place.

You should read it so you will be more knowledgeable about the issue of welding cast iron. Incedently, the Dave of one of the replys is now Dave #1.

Larry

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dave#1

10-23-2000 20:31:38




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 Re: Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Larry 8N75381, 10-23-2000 17:12:40  
Wow, that was awhile back (-:

Most of the cast iron welding I do is not cracks but repairing/replaceing boss's,ears and such on blocks and heads. Just last week I repaired a 1995 Bronco 351 V-8,one of the left side motor mount "Boss's" was broke and missing, I had to build up about 1" high and 1-1/4" dia., then grind,file ,drill and tap, this job took about 6 hours to do.
Welding cast iron has to be done right or like I said in 98 "Crack city" !

If you decide to repair your block make sure the weling shop that does the work knows how to weld cast.

later,dave

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Ramiro Longoria

06-27-2002 13:56:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to dave#1, 10-23-2000 20:31:38  
My mechanic said that I have a crack in my block behind the freeze plugs. I was told you can put some kind of liquid in the radiator to clog the crack, something about glass? If I do this will my car still be worth keeping? Will my car be good to run in town temporary or for a good while?
I have a buick 300, 1964.



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Larry 8N75381

10-24-2000 12:19:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to dave#1, 10-23-2000 20:31:38  
Yea, Dave, BUT '98 was just yesterday compared to when those castings were poured. :-)

AND contrary to some opinions I have read here, metal does not "age" and get weak. IF it was good metal in the first place. Bigest problem with metal as time goes by is a thing call migration. That is when impurities in the metal slowly mirgate out of the parent metal crystals to the boundaries between the crystals. This causes great internal stress that can, over time, litteraly break the metal. Migration is accelerated by heat and cold makes metals more brittle, so tempreture cycling is bad. The hot cycle lets the impurities migrate and the cold cycle makes the metal more brittle or sensitive to stress.

Old Lional trains often have this problem. The "pot metal" they were made from got contanimated by the recycling of waste metal back into the melt. A cost cutting procedure, but ultimately very costly when that RARE train has a huge crack in the frame. On cars you will see it in the old emblums, names, etc. that were used to "decorate" the older cars. Example, I had a '63 Dart where the "Dart" name that was on the fender now just says "D". The rest has broken off from age.

Of course, iron is much stronger than the zinc and similar metals used in the "pot metals" used in die casting. So I am not aware of cast iron cracking from internal stress, but in theory I guess it could under the right conditions.

Regards,
Larry

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Lyle

10-23-2000 14:28:34




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 Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Arnold - MD, 10-23-2000 06:02:43  
Arnold,Probaly the crack on top is not the one letting water into your oil. Pull the oil pan off and probaly going to find cracks between the cylinders on the bottom. That's what I just found while working on a Fergerson[not mine]. I pulled the sleeves[wet] and had it welded. It looked good and seems ok. Good luck



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Bill(Tx)

10-23-2000 10:16:05




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 Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Arnold - MD, 10-23-2000 06:02:43  
The N Ford mechanic I've worked with swears by a method of drilling, tapping, and treading in a specialized insert. Welding of cast iron does not appear to be a long term repair since microscopic cracks 'spider' from the welding process. The inserts cannot be used if welding has been done.

Link



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Dell (WA)

10-23-2000 08:31:32




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 Re: Fixing Crack in Block in reply to Arnold - MD, 10-23-2000 06:02:43  
Arnold..... .You might want to check the "archives" at the top of this most excellent N-Board about welding blocks.

This is a new location to me, "top of the block"

Welding cast iron, and in particular, cast iron engine blocks is a specialized skill and specialized equipment from what I understand. If the object that cracked (like the statue of Liberty) was a "one of a kind" and absolutely had to be repaired, then go for it and pay for it.

Myself, realizing that the successful repair welding of your N-engine would also necessitate the contemplation of a "full" engine rebuild. And if I was "in love" with my N-Tractor, I'd probably option out of welding, and instead get a "re-built" engine for about $1500 max. A new engine ought to last for 30 years, $50/yr, cheep..... ..Dell

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